Narrowboat refurb - Back to the bathroom...

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Zed, Oct 12, 2022.

  1. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Can't or a standard height door won't fit. Sat on the wood which is 15mm sq I have 5mm clear above an 1850 door. :)
     
  2. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    I said that earlier in the thread I thought you might be restricted in height due to the door aperture!
    Trial fit it dry as you have it now and stick your head down and look at the high spots to see if you have clearance then just go for it, what’s the worst that can happen you just take it up and and clean the muck off and have another go!
     
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I'm going to have to, I've been procrastinating since Tuesday and today is the day.
    Think I'll shorten the timber away from the corners though. Dry-ish mix... not that I have a clue about mortar but I don't want it to shrink and the load end up on the wood blocks. in truth I don't want the wood in there at all but I can't see a better way to get it level and square. Not sure I could yank them out after... maybe?
     
  4. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Add some pva you said you had to the water for the mix it will help it stay soft and make it more water resistant for the future. One cement to three sand!
     
  5. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Not much pva just a capful
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It was ready mix mortar in a bucket - these things aren't easy on a boat on a marina - where would I mix it? Nowhere!
    Tub said 100-150ml water per Kg. 100 was too dry, I ended up with 125 ish i.e. 1.25L in a 10Kg bucket. It was still quite dry.
    I did it as I drew and slid the tray in on taller pieces of wood between the mortar piles, whipped them out and jiggled it gently down onto/into the mortar.It jiggled down easier than I thought it would which makes me wonder if I shouldn't have used more mortar but too late now.
    I did cut the levelling wood away from the corners so I could get a good wodge of mortar in right to the corners.
    What do I think? Better than a stand kit which would have had one leg in the centre - at least I have a 2ft circle and it's done at last. I think it should be ok but I wouldn't win any prizes. No pictures of the mortar (to save my embarrassment). Tray still square to the walls. Fingers crossed.
    IMG_20231022_154504570.jpg
    I'll connect the drain tomorrow, if there's any flex in the tray I don't want to be flexing it and building flex space into the mortar bed.
    If I ever do this job again I'll get a better tray that's for sure, I have no faith in this one.

    Next concern is whether a door can be reliably fitted onto hollow pvc panels or whether there will be enough flex for it to work loose/crush the panels. I'm boogered if I'm going to spend £1k fitting it out with solid panels just to rip it out when the tray cracks. I've ordered some samples to see how rigid they are.
     
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  7. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Looks okay to me.
     
  8. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Pretty good tbh!
     
  9. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    The drain is pretty important to get sealed isn’t it. Time and patience is your friend there!
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    a
    Very! That's one part of the tray that looked good and the waste and seal fits it well. I had a dry run to check but not with water. I'll give it until tomorrow afternoon to fully cure then connect the waste. I could fill it up and check the level doesn't fall as the other end of the waste pipe is higher.
     
    Poptop2 likes this.
  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    As it did without the mortar! Time will tell.
     
    arryhancock and Poptop2 like this.
  12. What’s the gap size in the hollow pvc panels?
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The whole thing is 10mm thick and looks like this...
    [​IMG]
    You're wondering whether I could slide some square section timber down the appropriate slots I reckon. I had the same thought. :)
     
    Meltman likes this.
  14. Filling the void with something more solid has to be the way forward

    Are they panels that are going to line the shower?
     
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yes, though the photo is a random one from the net.
    I think it will be fine without doing anything TBH though I'll probably add more fixings to the door frame and stagger them sideways.
     
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  16. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    It'll be fine. Same stuff we've got in our 'motorhome' shower;). It's too wide for a single panel but it was a click system and I ran a light bead of marine silicon down the join when I put them together.
    12 years now, which obviously means I've tempted fate

    20231023_195125_Tlb6NZGq4P.jpeg
     
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  17. Meltman

    Meltman Sprout Lover

    Same stuff in our shower, good stuff.
     
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  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I'm planning on getting 1000 wide single panels.
    I'm more concerned about hanging a 900mm 6mm glass door frame against it (screws obviously through into the ply. Do you have a heavy doors frame screwed against it?

    Good to hear.
    Same question then - is your door hinged or sliding and is it fixed on top of the panels?

    Glass is approx 20Kg.
     
  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I'm pretty sure it will be ok, but if not, once it's fitted it'll be too late to do anything about it. Belt and braces and all that. :)
     
  20. Meltman

    Meltman Sprout Lover

    It's a sliding door and the aluminium frame was fitted to the walls before the panels were fitted. I wasn't sure if the panels would take the pressure of screwing the frame through them and collapsing when the screws were tightened up.
     

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