..my type4 budget rebuild..

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by areksilverfish, Feb 9, 2013.

  1. areksilverfish

    areksilverfish Supporter

    Hi..
    Need some more opinion on my engine I had to split.. I must admit I didnt want to do it as I ran out of money and time..but here we go..I kept it outside and some water git in not much really probobly I should have bothered but to late now..everything in pieces :p Anyway it turned up really good condition as for milege (180000km) everything std but its only my opinion and I am not an engine bulder:) but few things just bother me..lets have a look..

    [​IMG]

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    Also had no clue that there r two diferent lenghts of them.. :(
    [​IMG]

    BTW.. whats the best case assembly lube you recommend?
    I want to put it back together, finish my bus at last, injoy it and then after 2-3 years do the engine properly if funds permits... :)
     
  2. I use this assembly lube

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torco-MPZ...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3378dfa0b5

    And I use curil T for the sealant... my local machine shop stocks it :cool:

    on the cam, give it a rub over with a red scotch pad... it'll take that light surface corrosion off

    the lifters look fine too :cool:

    The oil pick-up I've not had a rummage yet... been a bit busy with a couple of other things so far today!!
     
  3. areksilverfish

    areksilverfish Supporter

    Ok..thx mate :)
    Will do as you say.. Regarding pickup tube Im not in that rush now it will take me a week probobly to collect all stuff I need ;)
     
  4. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Got any better pics of the cam, clean it up first but it looks pretty worn
     
  5. I wouldent be fitting that cam back in
     
  6. You're in luck... I have a short pick-up tube :cool:
     
  7. areksilverfish

    areksilverfish Supporter

    Lovely.. :)
    PM me pls I will paypal you straight away :)
     
  8. It's your choice ref refitting the cam , but it looks fine and will be good for 10's of thousands of miles
     
  9. Just a note from expereince! Plug the whole on the side of the block that is where the pully for the thermostat screws into.I chased the oil leak from that all last summer, only to find the bolt just had to be put back in. May save you some hair pulling! LOL
     

  10. If thats so then i shouldent worry
    I could rebuild engines all day long in my shed

    Even from the pictures i can see that cam needs replacing it may work but it aint at its best by a long shot

    If it was my engine id have a new cam and lifters at the same time
     
  11. yes ideally it needs replacing but its a short term budget rebuild , if the cam has no pitting /worn through the hardened surface then it`ll be fine , the lifters come from new with a concave grind to them .
     
  12. cam and lifters look fine? great advice, I pity your customers
     
  13. Honky

    Honky Administrator

    I think Paul means that the wear is to be expected not that is is perfectly fine.
     
  14. Wind it in sunshine.... my comments are based on what the OP is doing in the short term, not on how I build engines... all of my customers get brand new internals... about the only internals I don't replace are crank and rods... :rolleyes:

    And making assumptions only makes you look like an ass, not me!!
     
    holmsen likes this.
  15. madpad and Honky like this.
  16. areksilverfish

    areksilverfish Supporter

    Hmm.. Thx guys but Im really confused now.. Obviously I/you can see from pics the cam&lifters r worn..but my only concern is if I fit them they will work for a short term and wont couse any further damages to the engine.. I know you never know but I just cant figure out those square damages on cams lubes..just never seen something like it but got not much experience ;)
     
  17. Arek,

    That's how the original cams were machined... if you drop the cam into each half of the case you will see that only half of the cam lobe operates the lifter...

    The lifters are concave machined too before they are case hardened... this caused the lifter to spin as the cam lifts it... it gives it a better lifting action that is less likely jam, or wear the lifter bore!!

    I've got a cam here that I'll happily photo to show you that is how they come out!!

    As for the surface rust that you have on the cam, like it has already been said, clean it off and if there is no pitting to the surface of the lobe, or the bearing surface, then you'll be ok to go :cool:
    TBH if an engine has sat for years, you're likely to find a cam in similar condition even with it being kept inside in the dry!! And how many people fire up an engine that has been sat for 10+ years with no issues... I know I have!! My first camper had been sat in a field for like 6 years when I bought it... can of fuel and a new battery and it fired straight up and I drove it out!!
     
  18. areksilverfish

    areksilverfish Supporter

    Thanks Paul for explaining me how it works cos I really couldnt figure it out particulary why some of the cam lobes opperate only half lifters :) To b honest I even thought its something wrong for a moment but its cos of lack of experience really :p
     
  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Paul 1, Illdoit 0.
     
    Silver, Paul Weeding and holmsen like this.
  20. Can I clarify this point? So the cams were manufactured with the small indents on the second and third lobes? I was about to junk my cam as I thought it was damaged on these cams - the rest of the lobes are fine its just the centre of the top of lobes 2 and 3 which have about 0.25mm depression - and that's how they are meant to be?

    12022013417.JPG
     

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