This is fun isn't it. Marky - take no notice of any numbers and go by the evidence. The only use the number is, is, well no use at all. These engines are now so old most have been rebuilt and many at home. Home builders do not bugger about with the engine code. I had a bus with a W0 code engine - wow I thought 80+hp. But no, it was just the case, all the fancy gubbins were long gone. You need to do some homework. Good luck.
Cheers mork I'll add that book to my Xmas list. The fan and engine case Mach up both CE with the same number so I know they belong together, as for the rest of the internals who knows, Measured another couple of rods and they are the same length too, 270mm so I'll replace it with the same. The log book has been tidied away so I'll check to see if that matches up with the engine
if it is, it won't have the hydro lifters... they only fitted them to the uk 2l in 78/79, and even then not all of them had them Keeps you on your toes
Once you've got it in, turn the engine over by hand slowly... you're looking for tight spots other than compression resistance
When you put the new push rods in, you will probably need to flick them up with a screwdriver, as the lifter end is shaped in such a way, the push rod doesn't always self center and sit into them properly...
There "should" be a little notch in the top edge of the dizzy that should mark the #1 cylinder firing position. To do mine I took the top off the dizzy, used my finger nail to find the notch, then rotated the engine so the rotor arm pointed to this notch. I did another step which I'm not sure you "have" to do: I pulled the #1 spark plug and checked that the cylinder was at the top of the stroke, closest to the valves. Issues I hit when I did my timing were the dizzy drive shaft not seating properly when I refitted it. I had to turn the rotor arm a bit and then it clicked into place.
