yes I’ve thought about that but I haven’t found anything that looks right, don’t want it to look like ’90s Halfords
They look fine. Necessary protection against tailgating chavs LED rear bulbs look good, even without reflectors.
I fitted a high level light because people who were tailgating at low speed in a busy queue bumped my bus twice within a couple of weeks.. I dont think people can see down round the bulbous bonnets of modern cars to the feeble dim stock Bay brake lights either.. only high level lights in their eye line. Stop worrying about appearances. A bashed in valance and engine lid is quite expensive to replace. Its self defence.
@77 Westy - impressive... ...but even more impressed by that roll-out awning you have fitted May I ask where you got it? Or more importantly what make/manufacturer? and does it work OK for you? Usually if staying anywhere for more than 2 nights I use my driveaway awning, for quick overnight stops I either don't bother, or bash up a plain tarpaulin and tie it off against a tree or something nearby! A roll-out job like yours would be perfect and less hassle than the tarp option Cheers Ed (JoJo76 - 1976 Devon Eurovette pop-top)
With mine I painted them silver then when the paint was tacky I went over with light reflecting paint. It’s a clear laquer with tiny glass beads in it and it does reflect really well. I’m hoping the paint will also aid in slowing down the deterioration of the original plastic housings I’ve also done the same with the front indicators
It's a Fiamma F35 Pro 300.https://www.agentfiamma.co.uk/fiamma-f35-pro-camper-van-awning.html The F45 is a wind-out version. I bought it about 14 years ago from the cheapest supplier I could find, Motorcaravanning.co.uk but it looks like they are now called outandaboutlive.co.uk and I cant find awnings on their website. It works very well but really needs two to put it up although it is just about doable on your own, the wind-out one would be easy of course. The only problem I have had with it was self inflicted. We were on a campsite in Croatia and I didn't bother to use the guy ropes as it was very calm – until about 3am when a storm blew in and lifted the awning onto the roof of the van. I have never got out of bed quicker to pull it back down but the pivot pins on the casing had broken, no other damage and two new pins sorted it out.
You'll need brackets to fit it to the gutters and T2 ones are not available, T3 fit but need a simple modification.
Just getting into this LED indicator lark... From chatting to the classic cars LED guy it seems I have to isolate the live supply that goes to the spade from the indicator bulb by cutting the plate is half somehow...and then earthing it instead. Has anone tried this yet ?
This is a solution to keep the brightness of the dash indicator lamp . Another approach is to just use a holder that doesn't make connection to the 12 volt ignition backplate and take the ground to chassis from the holder - if you use a LED you could solder a ground wire to it and remove the grounding spring in the holder and drill a hole in the back of the holder for the earth wire. Otherwise another approach is to use a 1.2 watt filament bulb in the dash, wired as usual and connect a 20 ohm 15 watt resistor to ground in each indicator circuit. Because I am an electronics hacker I made up two things - one was an LED bulb with a bridge rectifier to make it bidirectional fitted to the stock holder. Then a current sink circuit that could pull about 50 milliamps to chassis that went to each side of the indicator switch so either circuit was grounded for small currents like the dash indicator LED.. Plus using a ClassicCarLEDs flasher that did not treat the lower load of the LEDs as an indicator fault - normal indicator relays expect 42 watts of light bulb each side and double speed flash if they only see 21 watts or less like with LEDS.
Yeah I'm going to try the CCL flasher relay and butcher the indicator bulb holder to take off an earth lead. Is their any chance of a more readable copy of your wiring diagrams please ?
A I shall, but be careful with that mod.. I thought about it and realised that was one thing I tried the other day to get a brighter dash LED with the LED bulbs.. It failed amusingly with the LED compatible flasher relay clicking all of the time the ignition was on, with the LED on the dash blinking away. It detected just that bright dashboard LED as a load and started flashing. This is because the VW flasher relay is powered all the time the ignition is on... In the stock setup, the dashboard bulb is only powered when the ignition is on and the indicators are drawing current I.e. the indicator switch is left or right and the flasher relay contacts are open. In hazard mode, the indicator relay is switched to be powered from the battery, the ignition switch is off, and the left and right indicator wires are connected to the relay output directly.. so then the dashboard bulb lights up when the flasher relay contacts are closed, and the current flows the other way from the relay into the ignition circuit where somehow it finds it's way to chassis.. like on a stock bus through the choke heater.. This means that you actually have to go to the outputs of the switch , put in a couple of diodes to steer the current to the dash indicator bulb..
Hello togehter, I guess currently right-hand traffic only: beside Osram Night Breaker H4-LED also Philips Ultinon Pro6000 H4-LED are available and legal for some typical H4 headlamps for low beam and high beam. I use the Philips, because it is cheaper and easier to assemble (the ring can be removed to slide the rubber on - sexy ) There are also Osram LEDriving SL BA9s-LED for for the parking light. My headlights are now 5800 Kelvin daylight white... (more photos at my website https://www.vw-t2-bulli.de/de-lamps.html) next step will be a brighter blue LED for the high beam indicator light... regards,
Be a bit careful with the main beam warning light I replaced it with a led it was great until it got dark, it was way too bright. I ended up taking some sandpaper to it to defuse the light
Yeah, blue led warning lights are evil! I coloured mine in with black marker pen and it's still bright enough
There is meant to be a little bit of black plastic with a square hole in it to reduce the light , that sits inside the cluster just behind the dashboard lamp colour filters blocking off most of the blue tinted area. It's easy to miss when you take it apart. The trouble is that a lot of bright "white" LEDs are actually a blue exciter LED and a yellowish phosphor. So they are actually extremely bluish in tint. In fact at a distance they appear blue. This was a problem finding LEDs for distress beacons when I.worked at McMurdo ...at a distance they look like a flashing blue light not a white light like all the pilots are taught to look out for. Also if you get one of the LEDs that look like the old fashioned clear top hat LEDs without a yellow blob of phosphor they are dimmer. If you buy the cheapest ones on eBay they are usually dim rubbish.. just what we need for the main beam..
