Using this oldish thread to expand on the gas locker question, I'm looking at the options of buying, or more probably making a gas locker for an internal gas cylinder, with an external fixed filling point. Obviously size matters depending on the cylinder size, but what specifications does a locker need, to achieve its aim of isolating gas leaks and allowing the gas to vent externally. I'm surmising the following but shout if any requirements are missing # sturdy enough to hold cylinder securely (via bulkhead?) # leakproof (silicon all joints) # accessable (door sealed with draft rubber excluder?) # vision panel to see content guage unless bluetooth used # hole for venting external for gas leak # sealed and vibration proof route for gas pipes in and out of locker Am I missing any criteria? Bought ones are made of metal afaik, so is there any reason why a DIY one can't be plywood?
Think you’ll find it’s more of a drainage capability moreso than a venting thang. So allowances for drainage as per a shower tray and not holding liquid. Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,not that I knows nuffink
Might be worth googling for boat standards on this. Couple of things that I am aware of include self draining i.e. through the bottom of the locker and to the outside, reasonably gas tight. Fittings something permanent with a fixed filler might be a completely different ball game. Good luck.
Cheers guys. I'm in the process of deciding whether to put a refillable tank in the kitchen cupboard with locker etc or to put an underslung tank in. This all helps.
Your spec determined by common sense Chris. Metal is preferable as it isn't porous, but sealed ply would be fine I think. However there's nothing stopping you buying some 2mm sheet and bending, drilling, riveting and sealing a metal one. Don't over think it though. As long as the bottle is secure and the box itself can't move around if, heaven forbid, you have a bump then you'll be fine. Ours is a sealed metal cabinet but is actually open with a letter box style vent at the top. This was the most practical way I could think of to be able to reach in to the top of the bottle to be able to turn the valve on and off. We do this religiously when travelling. As we have external pipework feeding both the propex and the external bbq point we always travel with the tank valve closed. For my mind the 3 most important criteria was that the box and bottle were secure, I could easily access the valve, and that it was room sealed down tje side and along the base and vented down through the base. The vent is a repurposed heater inlet. The type that is in 2 halves that screw together and has anti rodent grilles in it.
Linked to @JamesLey thread I've posted about underslung tank clearance. https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/how-to-gasit-lpg-setup.75470/page-3#post-1972604 Having an internal tank has some advantages and disadvantages (can't be hit, but takes up space) as does the underslung option (space efficient but need road clearance imo) and so I'm gathering info so I can make a choice later in the year. I called Calor yesterday ref changing my butane tank over to Propane...no can do at the moment. No new contracts being issued and only exchange for same type and size allowed!
They have huge issues with bottle supply at the moment. The office here has recently issued a statement confirming its exchange only and no new contract bottles are available.
And for your knowledge gathering exercise... Here's the vent on Chip, obviously covered in underseal...
