Where do I start? Anyone have recommendations of make and positioning etc. Going on a type 4 1800… Any guidance appreciated!!
I'm all ears on this one .Like yourself have 1800 with icts and initial jetting as recommended by WayoutWestie.
I bought an AEM kit, extended the cable and fitted it in the tailpipe as near to the silencer as I could, it worked fine but the sensors in that position don't seem to last too long. This is assuming you have stock exhaust. They are complicated inside so I couldn't think of anywhere else to put it. I don't think the long "air cooled" mount helped it's life either but my engine is on the large side and I didn't want to obstruct the tailpipe too much. If you do this like me, be aware the bumper irons are rather in the way of the sensor and it's cable so care needs taking positioning it.
I made up a temporary extension for the exhaust to fit between the silencer and the tail pipe with a boss to fit the sensor. Seemed to work ok. for the gauge I used a Bluetooth thing that works with my phone. No cables or drilling holes. You only need it when you’re tuning - once you get it set up right you can remove it all easily It’s a shame you’re so far away Ian otherwise I’d suggest just borrow my kit.
Months for sure, maybe over a year, I can't remember. Replacements on ebay are as good as Bosch ones for IIRC about £25. I left it in permanently because I was playing with different venturis mains and airs. It's still fitted, now in a VS exhaust - it lasted a couple of years in that before it went kaput in that. If you just want to tune your icts then take it back off I'd listen to Rob ^ I don't know how much that cost but I bet it was cheaper than the AEM kit.
I have a PLX devices setup permanently installed. The lambda sensor is facing down in the 4 into 1 collector of a single quiet pack. The cable between the computer box in the engine bay and the display needed extending. So it is upstream of the silencer box . I get a few years out of the £23 sensors, probably because its upstream of the silencer box so tends to get less condensation and pretty rapid heat up of exhaust gas. I believe that running very rich over towards 10:1 also shortens the life of the sensor as you are spraying it with soot. The other death is condensation as the sensor runs at 600C and doesn't like being splashed or heating up while its wet, hence the installation pointing downwards. Its permanently fitted because my tail pipe is too short to keep the sensor away from external air. And it has shown up creeping issues like the fuel metering needle valve wearing producing richer and richer running or the choke wire being knocked off..
I got this one: https://ldperformance.co.uk/product/wideband-controller/ Not installed so untested so far. Did manage to speak to the seller on the phone about some wiring questions I had - so it’s good to know a human being can be contacted. It supposedly has a Smart Warmup setting for permanent installation.
But what figures to aim for When I looked into it a few years ago there was so much conflicting info on what’s best air cooled engines as opposed to water cooled.
I fitted an AEM wideband kit and managed to pick up a good used Vintage speed exhaust which has two blanks to take the sensor. I extended the sensor loom with 7 core trailer cable and Bosch multiplugs. It works well but you tend to get fixated watching it.
Discussed here: https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/afr-carb-tuning-what-should-i-be-aiming-for.94345/
Don’t worry about afr at idle. It’s whatever gives the smoothest idle speed. Obviously 14.7:1 is the ideal but ours is happier idling between 12-13:1. It’s not going to affect mpg. Lean cruise can be tweeted with the idle jet and of course the main jet for wot/under load. Getting into swapping emulsions can get expensive and best avoided. Obviously you don’t want to be running the f78 emulsions in ict’s as they were intended for a Bedford van.
