Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by David Shepherd, Jul 22, 2020.
Hi there all as any body changed there pushrod tubes with the engine still in place
Type 1 or type 4 engine? Not really possible on a type 1.
On harley’s changing the cam without removing the rocker boxes we would collapse the oil retaining tube then cut the pushrods with bolt cutters . Replace with adjustable pushrods. But I wonder if someone makes adjustable pushrods and collapsable tubes...Could be a good idea. I’m sure they would leak. Adjustment would be tricky but doable with helpful instructions.. anyway,,,type 4 are easy . Open the covers. Spin the motor till the rockers are down . Remove the 14mm,nuts, take care to put back in the same way . Don’t reverse the part the nuts bolt on to . Don’t loose the little washers. And I find out if you have solids 76 and before or hydrologic. Lifters . You can tell by the rods . Aluminum for solids,
Simple on a T1. Just buy a set of telescopic tubes. I had leaking seals and relplaced the tubes with cheap plastic spring loaded ones. Been in there seven years and still no leaks.
You can of course also replace leaky pushrod tubes with leaky spring loaded ones if the leaks are due to somebodys silicone smeared unevenly on the sealing surface ...
Then replace pushrods, redo the tappets.
In general theres the lazy potentially failing short cut, and the harder way with the engine out where you may in the end only need clean off any silicone and replace the seals after you stretch the old tubes back to the length specified in Bentley .
If its time you have and you have already purchased an Elring engine seals kit, you have all you need.
Drop the engine, it’s only 4 bolts.
Thanks for the reply but can it be done or does anyone no if it as been done.
The question was asked what type of engine Type 1 or type 4 I have a type 4 and yes you can change the pushrod tubes
What engine do you have?
Yes, done it on a type 1
Very easily if you replace with sprung loaded or bolt up tubes.
Not impossible to remove the head and replace with stock tubes with the engine in place, but an almighty faff.
You can rip out tubes and use spring loaded ones with the engine in place, but it might not fix leaks at the seals..
The issue is the top cylinder head nuts are under the cylinder tins which are under the fanhousing. You cant get the heads off without undoing those nuts.
You have to pull the engine off the gearbox and lower it enough to lift the fanhousing off then undo the tins.
Then heads off so you can get at the sealing surfaces properly, clean any stupid silicone off them, stretch old tubes if they are not rusted through, replace seals, smear of oil on seals and twist the tubes to make sure they arent pinched as the head is torqued down, and the seams are up.. tricky on 4 at the same time but often managed in the end.
Make sure you put the little air deflector plate back in place so it is present but doesnt rub on the two tubes it is near..
All this is much easier with the engine out.
If its just dripping a bit, leave it for later when you can fix it properly rather than buying quite expensive telescopic tubes that may not fix a dirty sealing surface...
Just take it out, and buy a manual.
It’s worked for a lot of us, that way.
It can be done if you use the (expensive) spring loaded tubes, but they don't have a great reputation for not leaking.
Engine out, heads off is the only proper solution.
I can’t think of anything worse fiddling about with them spring things getting dripped on
The things people do to avoid the hard to get to bolt .. it might not be there anyway
He hasn't even said what type of engine it is.
This is true.
I’m guessing Type 4...
Try answering the question if you want an answer type 1 or type 4. If you don’t know just say so. Is it a 1600...
Sorry for the slow reply. I have a Type 2 1.6 cc
Type 1 engine then.
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