Hi all, Can anyone tell me if they have swapped a type 4 engine for a type 1 engine. My bus currently has a type 4 which I cannot get running right, but I must admit that based solely on my previous buses I prefer the type 1 engine. Been told that it will 'bolt straight in' as long as I have all the tinware and it has the support bar with it (or holes in the engine for the support bar, but will these match up with my existing support bar?). Also, someone has mentioned a hard-to-source piece of front tinware, but is this a standard type 1 piece if tinware (i.e. should come with the type 1 engine if it has all the tinware present) or is it a bespoke piece? Cheers
you need to shorten the input shaft on the box too... But my advice to you, is to stick with the type 4... it's a far superior engine to the type 1!! Where in the country are you??
I am in solihull mate nr Birmingham - just getting really fed up tryin to get this engine running in mybus - getting quoted 4-500 to rebuild my heads (& been told that these type 4 heads are notorious for cracking) and not sure how good the bottom end is after all that has been done. Just trying to get my bus running sweet and reliable without costing me a fortune.
This is commonly done here, as Type 4's are too expensive to maintain, and get parts for. Your bar will fit if you get a type1 for the bus that has the bolt holes cast into the block. Beetle engines don't have this. The front and back tinware have become quiet a rare find in good condition, so they are pricey. Try to get them from someone who doesn't know this. The input shaft has to be changed to type 1, and you'll probably need longer bolts for the block to attach to the 091 box. BTW: type 1 1600dp heads are just as notorious for cracking as, if not even more than type 4 heads.
One more thing, the 091 box is NOT suited for a T1 engine, original T1 that is. What you heard about the T4 is a load full of crap
running on 2/3 cylinders - compression low on front 2 cylinders. fitted new carbs made no difference !
Compression problems & carbs aren't connected. It sounds like you need to to get valves/heads sorted and then set up the fuelling. From what I understand the type 4 is pretty robust but if they get severely overheated it can cause head problems. I don't know anyone in your area who does engine work so can't recommend anyone. Someone will probably be along with some ideas shortly.
I've had both in buses. I like them both. Stick with what you have - converting will cost more. T4 bar will NOT fit T1 engine - completely different. I don't recall seeing many cracked T4 heads, but see a lot of regressed valve seats. This is always due to lack of general maintenance of the servo vacuum pipes and pipes between the carbs letting air in and overheating the heads. T4 engines are generally bullet proof in comparison to T1 and rev an extra 1000 rpm which means you can get up to 55-60 in third. T1 engines need to change into 4th about 45mph and at that point you have to wait patiently to pick up speed. T4 exhaust systems are the worst thing price-wise - you can get a rebuilt T1 engine for less. Nevertheless if you had T1 engine I'd also say keep it. Cheap and cheerful. Stick with what you have is the best advice IMO. BTW upgrading/changing carbs wouldn't have helped the compression. Look at the valves if you've got the heads off. Post pics for us. I've seen the odd one turn oval shaped but head still fine - a new valve is cheap as chips. You never know your luck.
You couldn't live in a better place - Brum is chokka with machine shops if the heads are saveable. But get quotes - some will charge 3x others. If valves seats have recessed, check for cracks between valves. If they're cracked, a new seat won't last.
I have done this conversion on my baywindow few years ago... As I can remember: I did not need to shorten input shaft. I did not need to put any longer bolts. You will need to use support bar from Type1 baywindow. Type4 support bar will not fit. Also I had to do some rewiring because Type4 engine had an external voltage regulator and Type1 engine had an alternator with internal regulator... That is all...
Cheers peeps - managed to get my type 4 engine started and running reasonably well, although I think it's still low on compression on 2 cylinders - gonna take it out for a spin and see if it drives ok(ish!). Very up and down with this bloody engine - if it doesn;t drive ok, may well be back on a downer so looking to change it. Doing my head in!
Stick with it dude Solihull is a ways from me, but I do get down around that way from time to time!! 8)
Took it out for a drive today and it is driveable - pulls ok on the flat and ticks over ok but you can tell there's something missing when under load. As it has been running rich & with the air leak issue from the vacuum pipe I am going to take the plugs out again and give them a clean up tomorrow as they will no doubt be well sooted up and will re-check the compression at the same time. Probably being a bit over-optimistic here but is there anything I can do to try and help with the possible valve issue assuming it is stuck or coked up without taking the heads off (e.g. WD40 in the cylinders through the spark plug holes) or run some Redex directly through the carbs or could it possibly rectify itself with some use?(well you never know your luck!). Someone has offered me a rebuilt 1600 engine, but think I will be losing some horses over my 1700 and someone has suggested that the gearing may not be suitable using my gearbox. My gearbox crunches going into 3rd (from either direction) so may be the time to swap for a 1600 engine and gearbox? Oh, so many decisions.
Go straight out for a drive when you start from cold and the chokes on. If it pulls better, you're now running too lean when the choke comes off so air leak still somewhere. If you reconnected the vacuum for the servo, start up, get under with a length of hose as stethoscope and follow the line to the servo listening for a hiss - you won't hear it above the engine without. 1700's are great, they go like a rocket at higher revs - 45 to 55 (60 if you're brave) in 3rd. having a shorter throw crank that's where the power is so don't lug it.
