Since buying my bus a couple of months ago, I have recently discovered that I am getting fuel into my oil. Looking at different likely causes on my 78 LHD 2ltr that a po had converted from injection to twin Weber ICT 34s, I intend to check out the carbs, but before I do this I looked at the fuel pump. I think I still have the old pump that I understand to operate at a higher pressure than the Weber's like. I have found two regulators advertised and I was hoping I could garner some advice as to the best option to fit and if my assumption about my existing fuel pump is right Thanks
I would (in fact I am) fit a fuel cutoff solenoid to the outlet of the tank. It's likely that if you're getting fuel in the oil that this is happening when the bus is at a standstill and the fuel is syphoning out. This will prevent it from happening. I'd check the float needle valves in your carbs too. This is the solenoid I bought: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petrol-d...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The round regulator is the one that came as part of a kit from VW Heritage , when I gave up on my manual pump and went electric. It all appears to work fine, but I have a stock set-up.
If it still has the high pressure FI pump I’d replace it with a low-pressure rotary, then you wouldn’t need a regulator. https://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=12704 EDIT. I’ve just looked at the pics, that’s not a high pressure pump but I’d still change it for a rotary pump.
You mentioned you have the higher pressure pump. If it’s the same pump that was on when it was fuel injection your pressure will be excessive for Weber ICT’s. They need 2-3 psi maximum pressure or it will wear the needle valves in no time and flood your engine with fuel as you are experiencing. You could fit a lower pressure pump or a fuel regulator so long as you don’t exceed 3psi. I would also change the needle valves they will be worn out.
How reliable are the Carter jobs? I admit my draining-down Dells are a bit of pain with a mechanical pump. They would've had an electric pump originally. Rotary pump just powered off the ignition supply?
That's how I do it. There are lots of ways using relays and alternator blue wires but with regulated flow, a solenoid cutout for when engine is off and good needle valves in your carbs, I reckon that covers it.
I always carry a spare, winter layovers can cause issues with them, but I personally haven't had a problem, yet. Mine are powered off the ignition, but there's probably a better way so that you avoid them staying on if you have an accident and the ignition stays live.
I’ve had a CB Performance/Carter rotary pump on the Bay for 9 years powered through a fuel injection relay; it’s been 100% reliable – tempting fate I suppose. The pump runs for a few seconds once the ignition is switched on – or at least it did with an Accuspark distributor but with the 123 it only runs when the engine cranks. Not really an issue starting, the rotary shifts a lot of fuel and quickly fills the float chambers if the bus has been left a few weeks. I wouldn’t power it just off the ignition unless there was also an inertia switch in the circuit or some way to stop the pump if the engine stalls but the ignition is still on.
Just off an ignition feed from the coil. I would put an inline fuse in the wire 3amp fuse will cover it.
Something like this So it's fuel pipe from tank to solenoid, fuel pipe from solenoid to electric fuel pump, fuel pipe from electric fuel pump to carb ?
