Fruitcake Type 4 engine rebuild - Finally started

Thanks for all the advice with the carb, what I'm after is a diagram or manual for it. I'm not even sure what it is as the only markings on it are EMPI! Does anyone know if it's the same as the Weber 32/36?

 

Must be something on line. Post up a photo of the carb.

Video all around the carb, with the flash on. Then watch it back on a big screen and see if it has any numbers on it. Then you'll be able to track a manual down

 

Yes, they are basically the same thing. If the mechanism opens first one butterfly then the other its likely a 32/36 progressive. The holes in the base are different sizes. The small one opens first.
If it opens both butterflies together with same size holes in the base then it may be a different variation- some are 38/38 parallel carburettors in almost the same castings.



In either case its a stop gap unless you provide HEAT.

 

The EMPI progressive is a Chinese copy of a Weber 32/36 DFEV. These links might help:
https://www.aircooled.net/making-weber-progressive-dfev-work-aircooled-vw-engine/
https://www.dellorto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/PVW103.pdf

 

That first article doesn't make good reading...

 

Some people really like this carb and have made it work by rigging up some kind of pre heat, a well functioning throttle linkage and jetting. It got me by for quite awhile with minimal work during my summer camping trips. I definitely appreciated its simplicity when on the road.

 

I’ve been running a progressive carb on a Type 4, 2Lit since I got Cyril 8 years ago with no real issues.
People talk about icing, never been an issue as far as I’m aware.
Had it rolling-roaded by an old classic car guy and he got it running fine, never had an issue since. And he told me that it’s a lot easier to set up n repair if it goes wrong.
Only possible criticism is that the screw threads can be rough so not as adjustable, but hasn’t really been an issue.
Would a twin setup work better; quite possibly, but at +/-£800 set up new that’s a big amount to me unless it’s a lot better...
BTW I get about 18/20 mpg around town and 24/5 on a run
Good luck

 

I ran my 2L with one for several years till the engine failed .
If it hadn't been for the additional complexity of the throttle cable/auto box then I would have kept it ... Good performance and mpg.
Took a while to warm up though.

 

I found that it didn’t bother the autobox at all, though I have the early type with the kick down switch on the pedal.

 

If you only use the bus in the warm then the progressive is OK, with richer jetting than really needed.
But try and fire it up at -5C and then try to pull out of a side turning before the CHT is up to 70 degrees or so or with no heat at all and you will know.
If the engine were more powerful the lurch would have you banging your head on the dash...it doesnt quite stop but leaves you crawling when a brisk launch would be better..

 

How is it coming along, @Fruitcake? I am sending positive karma, TE is creeping up on us all.


I need to crack on myself.

 

Jake Raby calls these carbs ‘engine killers’

 

It runs and drives but it's not brilliant, low speed pickup is poor. I'll be taking it on a longer run this week and will report back.

 

Is it worth me throwing in my leftover linkage bits in for TE? I am assuming you'll make it! I cast the linkage off because it was worn, so I don't expect you be able to use it on a running and driving Bus, however, based on my experience, it but might be useful for roughing out what you really need. I certainly wish I'd had that option when replacing my twin carb linkage, would have helped to look at what was available.

 

Cheers Andrew, that'd be great. I'll be there by hook or by crook

 

The bus is pretty much undrivable, it struggles to idle and I've had to advance the timing past the 40 mark on the scale to get it to run below 1000 or so rpm. As soon as I select Drive it stalls unless the idle is so high that I can hardly hold it on the brakes, the only way to drive is to left foot brake and knock it in and out of drive.

I know the carb setup is marmite but it used to run ok, albeit with a flat spot on pickup. I've removed the carb from the mount and it's marked EMPI 32/36F, a service kit is on its way so I'll report back once it's refitted but so far all the jets seem clear as do the airways, I'll strip it and put it in the ultrasonic bath in case there's some dirt in there. The only glimmer of hope is a possible air leak on the mount caused the constant popping through the carb whilst the old hydraulic lifters pumped up as per the attached photo.

 

At idle? If yes I think that means your leads need shuffling round one.

 

It's at a fast idle, I've checked the leads several times with the operation of the valves. It runs well at (a very) fast idle and above.

 

So not 40 degs at idle?

 

I don't have a tacho fitted but I'd guess the "idle speed to be 1200 - 1500 rpm at which the advance is off the scale, any attempt to retard it causes the engine to splutter and die. It simply won't idle at anything less.