Fruitcake Type 4 engine rebuild - Finally started

I did wonder that Geoff, is the timing needing to be advanced a characteristic as well do you think?

 

I don't know Andrew, the one that came with the bus , it's electronic ignition with vacuum and mechanical advance

 

Standard timing should be okay – that’s what I use with that cam, don’t go more than 30deg total advance.

 

It's just that SVDA and 009 point in different directions at TDC.

 

is it ok to set the timing using No3. as my notch in the pulley seems 180 degrees out.

 

Did you take the pulley off the fan at any point?

 

...and, when you replaced the fan are you 100% sure you got the roll pin located correctly?

 

You can certainly have the fan 180deg out on the hub but the hub only has three bolts so that can’t be 180 out even if the roll pin isn’t located. You had the crank on number 1 compression (post #3) when you refitted the distributor drive so there is something very odd going on.

 

No, and according to Ratwell the notch is in the correct point WRT the dowell.

 

Yes I've double checked it.

 

The roll pin is correctly located, the notch is in the right place on the pulley according to Ratwell and as you say the crank was at No1 when I refitted the distributor drive, the pulley wasn't on so the notch wasn't checked but I did ensure that the dowel on the flywheel end lined up as expected. If I rotate the engine with the rocker covers off and look at the rotor arm position the valves operate as expected. The only thing that doesn't add up is the notch in the pulley!

 

The notch lines up as per this photo from Ratwell.

 

Thinking about it no.1 and no.3 both spark when the mark is in the right place. That's one mystery solved.
Perhaps where you clipped on no.1 it got interference from another lead.

Have you made any changes to the carb settings since it was running ok? Throttle stop perhaps?

 

I'll recheck it tomorrow and make sure that the strobe pickup isn't getting interference. The carb hasn't been touched since it was out but the plugs were a bit sooty when they came out so it's probably always ran rich. It's definitely over advanced, I can hear it when it's cranked, it spins then stops, spins again and starts. if I retard the timing a bit it spins better and starts but won't idle at all and picks up slowly.

 

Does anybody know anything about these Empi progressive carbs? I think they're copies of the Weber one but I can't find any information about them apart from jet sizes etc, I'm after a diagram of one to see what screws do what and how it works. I'm also reading that they shouldn't be used on a type 4 engine as they run too rich and give a flat spot, which strangely is exactly what I'm seeing. It's always been like that but it's now a lot worse since the engine's gone back in. The choke doesn't seem to move they just sit at the 3/4 open point, there is 12v going to the mechanism.

Any thoughts?

 

I think @mikedjames knows about these, not certain tho?

 

Carbs generally have the chokes connected to some kind of stepped mech that requires throttle operation to set. Operating the throttle on cold engine should allow the flaps to spring shut. If not, while operating throttle to disengage the step thing, loosen and twist the choke until the coil inside catches the lever and shuts the flaps. From there it should relax with 12v but you might have to operate the throttle again to allow it to move.
Hope that helps.

 

If i remember , @SeanOC is running one on a 2litre but how much `hands on` work he`s done i really don`t know ?

 

I think I had trouble with mine because the way I had my throttle cable set up. It interfered with letting off the choke.

I did a modification on mine that involved drilling out a capped off air passage and installing a nipple. I ran ported vacuum to it from the vacuum outlet on the carb. This keeps the power valve open at idle. It got rid of the flat spot except in cold weather. Look up power valve mod on the samba.