It was mick that I dealt with he runs it with his son, who I didn't meet, he seemed to know his stuff and had 2 built engines ready to go, it wasn't the cleanest of yards, I think if you went there first you would maybe think twice, but buying online I suppose you dont see the workshop, As I said my experience was positive, unless the timing gear and spacer falls off The bonus for me is they are 15mins away
Are these any good to you. Best check they are the right spec. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Air-C...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Air-C...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
It's a story too long for this thread, but Mick turned around a short motor for us in less than a week when our incredibly expensive Heritage motor was found to be faulty out of the box. He sourced a decent WBX case and put our cam, new heads and other internals together so we could continue our trip. That motor did 16,000 hard miles that year on the syncro (2018) including about 8k in Morocco. At 25k or so we sold it for the diesel conversion and compression was still within spec and it was faultless. The Xmas before lockdown we'd bombed down to Spain for a couple of weeks of winter sun. Highly recommend Mick and Colin (I think that's his lad).
Then again I had one that was built with the pistons hitting the head when it warmed up and Dean Butler had an absolute nightmare engine which was then swapped out for for one with a little end circlip missing - actually 2 clips at one end, none at the other - that one totalled itself.
They do! Which is the point really - it comes down to luck and you got lucky, Dean didn't. Mick is a nice guy though, no argument there, he drove a replacement up to my place in the back of his beamer.
Help please, I'm also having Distributor issues but mine is 90° out, I didn't think it could be At tdc no1 con rod fully extended my rotor arm points to the fly wheel, it used to point to no1 cylinder I've tried to rotate the dizzy shaft I can remove it thankfully but it never goes back in the right place, I timed the crank and the cam with the dots, I'm sure I put the dizzy in and lined it up, I don't think it has moved im using tom wilsons book and i cant see where im going wrong, I've even checked with my old crank pulley to ensure the new one is correct Help
Firstly, do you know that you are on TDC firing stroke? There are 2 x TDC, it's a four stroke engine. As you don't have the top end fitted you'll have to judge it by the cam followers - TBH I'd build up the top end first. Second - being 90 degs out does not really matter, you just move your HT leads around so that No'1 lead is where the rotor is pointing. If you wanted your HT leads "neater" you could continue to try and get the distributor drive shaft in the right place.
^all of this. Stick your top end back on and you can properly judge no 1 TDC on compression stroke. Slot in dissy drive should run West-East, as per pic in Haynes.
So if I do still want the rotor arm pointing to no1 once ive built the topend will i have to split the case to obtain it, if i do then i would rather do if now , I'm not sure, I would like back to how it was
That's what I saw, if I remove the dizzy and rotate the pulley untill east,West I'm at 90° out, will the dizzy drive move the 90° or will I have to split the case
Thanks for the replies, I had a cuppa tea, a stroke of the dog, back in garage and 2nd new attempt Rota now points to no1
Not quite sure what you mean. Turn the engine until you’re at TDC on the no 1 compression stroke (both valves shut), stick a dowel into the dissy drive, lift it caaaaarefully a bit and reposition it until you’re east-west with the offset drive dog slot in the right position (can’t recall whether it’s at top or bottom).
I'm on to deck height question now, I really thought this was going to be chuck everything together and be done I never realised it was this involved but here we go, I am trying to learn I'm reading/working through the haynes/Tom Wilson book, Question is I have barrel shims under my barrels haynes and Wilson say- 1-2mm deck height I have with no shims = 1.12mm With shims = 1.82mm What's the best to go with, I don't really understand if the higher 1.82mm is better than the 1.12mm Thanks
1.12mm deck is better for squish but you need to work out the compression ratio as it might be too high. Avoid having a deck more than 1.6mm if possible.
May I ask, if I was to of used all my old parts, I've only changed the barrels and pistons, to 1641, would i have had to do any of this, I thought the pistons were the same depth just larger in circumference
Would it also make a difference that I have head shims aswell So a shim under the barrel and one in the head
I think the problem I have is - I can do the work, but I don't understand why I'm doing the work , if that makes sense
You can chuck everything together and be done with it and if you were using all original components the engine would run. But you’re not using original parts and although it would probably run with 1.12mm or 1.82mm deck height you won’t have a clue what the compression ratio is. You’re doing the work because you’re building a non-standard engine and you need to know if it will run well or not at all.
