Good job I’m still on furlough, I can do it over the next couple of days Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
There's only one way to find out and a tap that loud should have a visually obvious cause you'd think.
When you get into it tomorrow take a good look and check the best you can for a broken valve spring ... ? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
If you really want to get into it. Pull all the pushrods out. And tubes. You can stick your finger in there and pull out the lifters one by one. Make sure you put them back in the same hole. Solids are tricky sometimes. Check each one and see if they’re not concaved. If you find one that is. That’s probably it ,I had the same problem.It’s also a good thing to do. Because the hardness comes away from the lifter and start slapping around in there. It’s always nice to know what you have.
If there is nothing obviously wrong when you’ve removed the rocker covers and you do as dubsurftones describes you’ll also be able to visibly check the condition of the camshaft and, with care, check if there is excessive clearance on the cam thrust bearing. The noise is typical of a cam knocking backwards and forwards at low revs but if the knock is only on one side of the engine it could be a small end bearing failure – remove one plug lead at a time, if the knock stops…
Thanks for asking, Unfortunately I was tied up with other stuff today but I’m having a look in the morning I will post once I have had a look Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just reset all of the valves. Cylinders one and two were around about okay, a little bit out. And I have reset them at 0.15mm. However the left-hand valve on cylinder three and both valves on cylinder 4 were tight with no gap or play whatsoever on the right-hand valve of cylinder four ! I do have a question as I have a Type 4 2Lit engine And it is clearly marked on the fan housing as being 0.15 mm gap. However the Haynes manual says that I should be setting it at 0.2 mm for the Type for engine Which is correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I do mine to 0.15, if that helps? It was a 1700, but has new heads, so I went with 0.15, all but two last time were unchanged.
Good point, but there again I wouldn’t know a sodium valve if it but me.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry, I had to get cleaned up & upload the videos... painful I think that it sounds better but my hearing is shot! I took the following: 1.) The springs for Valves 1 & 2 look fine: 2.) As do the springs for Valves 3 & 4: Can anyone see any issues, I can't? 3.) This is when I started from dead cold after re-setting the valves. To me it sounds better but I still wonder if there's a know that I should worry about (?): 4.) And finally when the engine had been running for about 5 minutes: I really don't know any longer if there is a knock that I should worry about or if I'm worrying needlessly. I do however have at least some hearing imparement & I have always been tone deaf !
It doesn't seem worse under load, if anything it's better at faster revs. No backfires or loss of power.
