Engine Heat Questions

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by the crumpets, Feb 14, 2013.

  1. I have a stock 1600 Tp, 009 dizzy, Stock exhaust with single carb and pancake filter.

    Just taken the van for a quick spin getting it ready to be used again. I have changed the plugs, set the timing at full advance and everything ok.

    However when i got back i checked the engine bay for leakage after a previous problem. The heat riser and inlet air manifold for 3 and 4 was red hot however the other side 1 and 2 was luke warm. It was the same for the tin ware over the exhaust on the left hand side was very hot and the right hand side was luke warm

    Is this normal or have i got problems else where?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. potentially an air leak on the inlet manifold on 3&4
     
  3. Hello again Paul,

    The other engine rebuild is going slower than expected, infact it has come to a grinding halt at the moment.

    Anyway, to check for an air leak on the manifold and heat riser whilst the engine is in situ, do i simply run the engine up and then squirt some wd40 or similar around the base of both and see if bubbles appear.:confused:
     
  4. You're on the money with spraying some wd in there... but instead of bubbles, you're listening for a engine speed change/increase, as it'll be sucking, not blowing ;)
     
  5. Ah the old suck, squeeze, bang and blow and not blow, squeeze, small pop and blow again. Gets me everytime
     
  6. I use a gas blowtorch to find vacum leaks as the revs rise noticably when butane gets drawn into the intake side where as wd40 etc will give a bit of a rise but its hard to determine sometimes

    A bit of vac hose connected to the end of a plastic beaker can be used as a stephescope to hear the hissing from vacum leaks aswell
    Just be carefull with it near drive belts
     
    Bertiebot likes this.
  7. good tip. probably worth putting the ciggie out first though
     

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