I was quite impressed by the (potentially leaky) pressure regulator jammed between the air cleaner and firewall
I’ve been running the same carb for a few years but am switching back to the originals which have been rebuilt. It runs decently enough for my fair weather camping trips but falls on its face by late fall. The problem most people have is a big stumble when moving off of idle. People have had success with rigging up some kind of preheat, playing with the jetting and modifying the power valve to stay open at idle. In the long run you would be better off with dual carbs, but it is workable to get you down the road while you figure out the rest of your engine. Make sure it is good and warmed up before you hit the road.
Thank you for your reply! It’s a bit disappointing but I will definitely have a look into it maybe for next year. By warmed up do you mean just starting up and leaving it running before driving? Or does it stumble every time you move off idle even when it’s been going a while?
In warm weather, I just let it run until it’s off the chokes. In the fall, I might take it around the block before going on the highway. I also built a weird linkage for it so it would open and close the throttle smoothly and consistently. I liked it for the conditions I drove in. I don’t know how you plan to use your bus, but I think it’s fine for enjoying it while you dial it all in. Get what you have running well and make changes one at a time. When you throw a bunch of parts at it all at once, it’s hard to nail down what caused the change good or bad.
@Little Nellie do you happen to know what size bolts are needed to fit this? Got a new timing scale and fan guard but don’t have the necessary bits yet! Thanks
Think they are the same as the tinware fasteners...I changed all mine to Allen key type heads on the tinware and I'm sure I changed those as well. Usual suspects will state size on their website...then get from Screwfix or Toolstation.
Hello all, this happened to me again this morning, this time a different pipe popped off! It stays on now I’ve put it back but needs something more secure, best option a jubilee clip?
Afternoon guys, when I started this thread I was having problems with her cutting out when slowing down (breaking) and changing down the gears. I have checked all rubbers for air leaks and changed them regardless if they where good I’ve listened for air leaks along the brake servo pipe and get find anything The heat exchangers to manifold are on really tight but could there still be air leak here ? I’ll try uploading a video
Yes, a hose clip. Even a cable tie Probably popped off because of backfiring in the inlet manifold probably due to rich mixture needed to cover the poor performance of the carb. I think thats the brake booster hose so you would have got hard brakes and idle problems from the air leak..
One other thing back on the original post, is these carburettors have a habit of dribbling with any fuel pressure - why I was strongly encouraged to fit a fuel shutoff solenoid to stop it. When you fill up with fuel, the pressure from the fuel in the tank increases, with the hydrostatic head of fluid. So it starts being fed far too much fuel , and the only way you can get it to run is to floor it. It will die at low revs/low load as the fuel leaks in. Engines stop with too little or too much fuel in the inlet manifold. Eventually this leads to fuel-in-oil and potential engine damage. Two things - One - The fuel metering needle valve on Webers starts leaking with vibration. That point should be smoothly tapered. Two - the fuel dribbles past the leaky valve with the engine stopped and the van parked. Fit a solenoid valve to cut off the dribble.
