Engine cutting

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Geraint Thomas, Mar 4, 2020.

  1. Hi guys, so I have been turning the bus over through out the winter months but never drove anywhere until yesterday . Every time I slowed down approaching a junction or stationary car the engine would cut out? It would fire back up , but would cut out again! What should I start to look for please? 1800 type 4 , twin solex carbs, electronic power spark dizzy.
     
  2. nicktuft

    nicktuft Supporter

    Air leaks in all the vacuum hoses that might have perished.
    Also check gasket seal on the manifold.
    I'd do this first before fiddling about with the ignition.
     
  3. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor supporter extraordinaire

    Also check the fuel cut off solenoids are working OK by pulling the wire and tapping them back on. (Ignition on, engine off)

    Could also be stale fuel if it hasn't had any fresh for a while.
     
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  4. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Go and find a video showing the state of crank bearings where the owners just fire up the engine in the garage and never let it get fully warmed up. Basically the bearings will lose their surface with lots of cold start/stops and running oil pressure will start to drop.

    You need to run it until its properly warmed up, or drive it to keep it fresh.

    Dying at traffic lights might be dirt in idle jets as well as the other suggestions above.
     
  5. ^this. If it runs fine but won’t idle, likely to be the cutoff valve.
     
  6. Ok thanks guys , I’ll do some investigating!
     
  7. Start with seeing if the idle cutoff cables have dropped off. Cutting out on idle typical symptom.
     
  8. Checked idle cut off solenoids, cables all fine and I hear the click noise When ignition is on and I touch it ? I’ll check for a Air leak and put some fresh fuel in
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2020
    snotty and JamesLey like this.
  9. servo vacuum leak
     
  10. Wasn't that an album by Kraftwerk?
     
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  11. Sorry how and what do I check?
     
  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    There are three idle shutoff valves according to Bentley. Two on the left. One on the right.
    You need to turn the ignition on and in turn disconnect each one and check they click.

    The big one on the left is the central idle circuit which feeds idle mixture to both carburettors.
    The small valves control idle shutoff left and right side.
    They all need to work or your idle speed will drop so low the engine stops.

    Another thing we came across at Techenders was that the ball joints on the throttle linkage one side were really sloppy and so the balance of the opening of the throttles was all over the place.

    Basically even without using a balancer 'snail', taking the air cleaner off and listening to the whistle of the air in each carb, they sounded different at idle, and the 'gasp' as the throttle was opened was different. One side was hanging open off the throttle linkage and the other side had 2mm slop before it started opening...
     
  13. I have checked two of the valves I must have missed the 3rd valve on the left side. The two valves where clicking when I tried but I’ll look and do the third as well
    Regarding the throttle linkage do you mean the 5 - 6 inch arm connecting the carb to balance bar ?
     
  14. there will be a perished rubber elbow just below each carb or one of the hoses that lead to the servo on the front beam ...
     
    Geraint Thomas likes this.
  15. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Yes the bar that goes from the carburettor throttle to the arm on the bar- those ball joints wore out one side.
     
  16. Hello,

    Just had a fantastic few days driving around North Wales with just minor things to sort out - a successful first trip in the new van!

    However, on the way home I filled up as normal. When I turned the engine it started fine but then immediately cut out if I didn't rev massively. Once moving it worked, but then on the approach to junctions it would cut out when it reached low speed. After a stop to check I couldn't see anything obvious with my limited knowledge, we decided to drive the couple of hours back as we were pretty much on the A55 so could cruise along when I got it going. Got back alright however it was backfiring a lot, more so at lower speed or slowing down, and it cut out consistently as soon as I slowed below 15mph. The brakes also felt "hard".

    Reading this thread, I think it may be of use and feel confident this is something I could maybe have a look at but I am a complete novice! Can anyone point me in the direction of potential fixes/describe exactly where they are when I look at the engine/carb? I've attached some pics.

    Only other thing to mention is I have noticed that when idling out of gear after driving for a while, the revs can be going a bit mad, until I put it in gear and bring the clutch up. Not sure if this might be anything to be concerned about at all really, or related to this current prob!

    Thanks all IMG_7617.jpeg IMG_3794.jpeg IMG_5972.jpeg IMG_6155.jpeg IMG_3176.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    First picture left side, the top short pipe on the big black pipe T near the firewall should be blocked up. Whatever blocked it could be lying around. This would cause your running and braking symptoms.
     
    Dubs likes this.
  18. This thing? Would it be rubber that blocked it? I’m gonna head back and look at the van tomorrow. If it’s missing is there something I could use to test it?

    thank you so much!
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yes that thing, it does look stretched as if something was bunging it up doesn't it? It's the brake servo vacuum pipe. Somebody used a T connector to join 2 pipes. I'd guess that it had twin carbs previously and the servo pipe fittings were reused.
    If it does turn out this is your problem I'm sure you'll be refitting it with a clamp.
    Perhaps the engine sneezed when you were starting it and blew it out. There should be a one way valve the other side of the tin to protect the servo from just such an event.
     
  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    If you have older photos of ypur engine you might see what/if there was something there?
     
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