Electronic Ignition swapped for points

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Little Nellie, Jul 21, 2020.

  1. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    just got my kangarooing sorted. Was a blocked fuel filter. New filter fitted and all new fuel lines.

    During this fix the Pertronix electronic ignition was swapped for traditional points I guess as a cheap substitute to see if the electronic ignition was the issue. They were left in, as garage prefers these- can always get you home etc.

    I drove the bus back 7 miles and several things were noted, I assume relating to the points:

    Much hotter engine, the rear bumper in now almost scalding, before was just warmish

    When cooling down the sound of moving fluid. Didn’t like this at all, must be petrol

    Power was ok, but didn’t quite have the acceleration as before

    Is the very hot bumper normal and the sound of fluid movement?

    Could simply points cause this?
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2020
  2. No to all. Sounds like your ignition timing is well out of whack. Did you retime it when you put the points in?
     
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  3. Surly it would be a timing issue rather than the points themselves.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
     
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  4. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Garage did the work, I can ring and ask tomorrow
     
  5. Do they know what they’re doing?
     
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  6. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Agree it sound like classic timing and hot engine
     
  7. I certainly get the same gurgling sound when it's warmed up which I assume to be normal. I believe it's fuel condensing in the breather bulbs. My bumper also gets hot, but I've got a tow bar very close the the silencer. I'm not overheating and have got an oil temp gauge - it rarely gets over 100C. But if it really is getting hotter than before it needs seeing to.

    Our buses are quite unusual having the petrol tank right next to the engine.
     
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  8. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter


    May have a solution here! Just measured my timing with a strobe. The engine speed sounded like it should by ear and I got 8 degree After tdc. These are the only white timing marks on the pulley so should be ok to use.

    So 8 degrees after doesn’t sound good. Would this explain very hot engine and iffy idle (when you get it to idle it’s ok, but when driving and stopping at junction it cuts out?
     
  9. matty

    matty Supporter

    doesn’t the dizzy sit about 90deg different with the module than with points
    It does sound like they didn’t re time it.
     
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  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    This is type 4?

    Look hard at the further part of the pulley for a small notch. There should only be one. Ignore the white paint, it's possibly to assist someone setting the valves.
    You've now been from 16BTDC to 8 ATDC.
    Something is not right. At 16 before you should have a hole in a piston, at 8 after it would have zero power, barely run.
    Is your timing light simple trigger or adjustable?
     
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  11. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Using AccuSpark H8000. Nothing to adjust on these, just a trigger. The power was definitely disappointing and extremely hot. 269C2D0E-7AA1-400C-9B99-D497D697C8CA.png
     
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  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    What do you think about the timing mark?
     
  13. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Yep, Type 4.

    I’m going to have a look tomorrow in the light. Yes, I remember the notch in the pulley from last year, but haven’t been looking for it this time around, as there’s only one white mark and n the pulley

    So if you were to make a mark starting from scratch. I guess you’d find the notch. You’d line this up with the zero on the black plastic scale. This is top dead centre. You’d then make a white mark at the 8 degrees on the left so denoting 8BTDC.

    When the engine is ran at reasonable idle speed you’d adjust the dizzy so the flash coincided with the 8 BTDC mark?
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You don't make any marks???

    Start engine. Warm it up.

    Let it idle.
    Line up notch using strobe with 8 BTDC.
    Job done. This is how it must be. If the idle speed is not right at this point, adjust the throttle stops, but not the timing.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2020
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  15. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    So I guess it’s possible to see the notch under the strobe light without any white mark?
     
  16. Not easy to see the notch with a timing light unless you put a dab of paint preferably white on the notch.
     
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  17. Have you got a timing scale bolted around the fan? To do it accurately you need to set it at a maximum advance of 28-30 degrees btdc. This is at about 3000 rpm with the vac pipe removed from the distributor & plugged.
     
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  18. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Yeh, I’ve got the scale bolted to the fan. Unfortunately I have no tachometer, or vacuum. I know they’re lots of opinions on this, but please appreciate I’m in survival mode presently. Very, very hot engine, sound of bubbling fuel.

    This is how I picked from garage today. I want to prove to myself all’s ok with the engine before I contact them again. So even if I don’t adjust the timing, from it’s possibly incorrect position, at least I can quote a true timing figure
     
  19. Or get an Accuspark Adjustable Timing Light for £30. HERE
     
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  20. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    I’ll get one of these. Advantage over my current one appears that you can set timing at speeds greater than idle? Do these display the rpm?
     

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