Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Poptop2, Jun 1, 2014.
And long sleeves coz sunburned forearms are bloody painful too
I will give it a go. Cheers.
I was trying to weld flatter as Steve said and found it difficult to keep a straight line.
I wore a pullover yesterday. Not the best decision in hindsight
Sizzle, not crackle. The smoother the hiss of the weld, the flatter the weld - just something I've noticed.
If it won't sizzle,
wire speed too fast
metal contaminated (rust counts)
too low amps
Sometimes while doing blobs in may crackle before sizzling (all within a second). Keep on trigger until it sizzles before letting go.
You can weld to rust, but you shouldn't. Welding to rust perversely needs more amps.
*Sometimes you may find it useful to give it the merest blat, then immediately follow through with the tack.
* @lost-en-france suggested that to me when I was learning.
I tried the angled tip tip you gave me. That was good today. The welds into the corners inside the sill making up the posts went really well yesterday, but no pics until the computer is back. I am now having trouble holding my hands still on the flat bits. I suppose that's practice?
To go straight ,rest your elbow on your knee/floor/box anything ,if your arm is dangling in mid air it`s very hard to go straight..
Beginning to realise this now. Cheers
It is hard to keep straight. Probably the hardest thing of all. I used to vere way off course and it drove me nuts. It rarely goes perfectly, particularly with old stuff. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! <- helps a LOT or your wire will arc to the best bit which may not be where you're aiming. This is another good reason to cut out all the rot, checking both sides.
I'll probably get shot for this tip, but you can rest the tip on the steel at about 45 degs with a few mm wire sticking out - can't miss if you're just doing a blob. I confess to being a lazy git and often doing this. You can only do it relatively low power or the tip gets too hot ant the wire jams. And if you're welding overlapping sheets rest it in the join and do a quick row.
You can buy spot weld shrouds for migs to do just that
One day I might try one of those. TBH, you can plant a standard tip upright straight on the metal, do a quick pulse and get a perfectly flat little weld, but it messes up the tip and shroud of course, and welds the wire to the tip. One must try these things though.
Or use your spot welder of course.
I can see why you have two ,when you weld your first to the body...
very good that one it certainly demonstrates it well.
Just a quick update, no pictures, sorry.
I moved the doka over to the other side of the garage so as I can work on the nearside on Friday. I did a bit of cleaning up getting it ready for the inner sill to go on and left it for the weekend. Yesterday I finished prepping for the inner sill and tacked it on. Unfortunately I never noticed I had left the gas on over the weekend and I had been tacking with no gas, boogger! I must have a leak on the set up..grr!. undeterred I carried on cutting steel for post fabrication and wondering how I would get another bottle of gas at short notice. I checked the internet and found a company local to me that refilled co2 pub bottles for £30 +the dreaded. I rang them this morning and got chatting about the options they offer as I am keen to try argon co2 mix, but need a regulator and a bottle. She offered me a bottle that holds 9lb of gas a regulator, 9lb of argon co2 mix and delivery for £75. So I took the deal and am eagerly awaiting tomorrow s delivery. Meanwhile,I have carried on fabricating the upright sections in readiness.
I am happy to be able to change over to argon at that price Inc delivery.
Nearside inner sill fabrication. Excuse the tacking and other bits I had no gas so they will have to be redone. Poor pics off the kindle again.
Can I get away without a middle sill I wonder
I don't believe they had middle sills. Top Bannana's Doka didn't.
I know you just balanced them in there, but those posts would originally end with a tab on the outer/lower part of the inner sill. And they should have a flange on the outer edge. They need to be 3D to prevent them buckling, but you're an engineer, you know this.
They did away with middle sills on very late models,mine didnt have em either (jk didn't believes it though and insisted I did need them when I returned the ones I bought by mistake!
I can fix that tomorrow. Cheers.
It's a long time ( 28 years) since I last did any building engineer practice Steve. I no longer class myself as such.
I just thought Steve, those are both box sections in the making and have a back and front to go on. I will making those bits tomorrow
Ok, you have common sense then. It's best to take your time and copy what was there, cut enough panel off to get good access to a good bit and rebuild. You look like you might have been about to tack them to those rusty tatters, though I'm sure I must be mishtaken.
Look inside at the remains of the posts, they're all different! But similar. One has to stick out for the sticky out panel join? Don't reinvent the wheel, extend what's there!
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