CV Joint questions

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by burnzdog, Jul 16, 2019.

  1. Hi all,

    91 Syncro.

    Had a failure today on my CV joints both front inners. Both boots are completely detached from joint. Cant see why that would happen and how it passed last year as havent really done many miles since. Unless they missed it of course.

    Just wanted your opinions on whether its common.

    Also should I take opportunity to replace joints as well?


    alos, any one used veewee for joints? ... er+80+-+91
  2. Boots are notorious for being poor quality these days and I imagine the Veewee ones are crap. I got some GKN Lobro ones but I haven't put them on so can't comment. Loads of fk on here will soon be along to say what's best these days.
  3. It is likely to be crap boots. I think we've given up trying to find good ones.
  4. Their ad. states the joint, for some reason, isn't suitable for Synchro!!!! fronts.
    You'd hope a supplier would at least be able to spell the vehicle type correctly...:rolleyes:

    Anyway, Brickies genuine VW boots are currently out of stock but Volkswagen Classic Parts show the correct boot in stock

    The joints may well be ok, you'll have to clean and inspect them first.
    If not, I fitted 6 of the GKN Lobro joints from Brickwerks to our van 18months/20k miles ago and so far so good.

    It's not worth scrimping on the front inners because they're a pain to fit as you have to remove the stub axle/outer joint at the same time. If it's of any use, our outers were toast as well, so I fitted the low cost alternatives from CVC to see what the quality was like.
    But, I used the original axle nuts as they are way better quality and the original boot for the same reason.
    Again, so far so good and we've done a fair amount of off road and green laning recently.

    Be aware that there are spacers between the inner joint and the flange on the front diff fitted as standard. (Position 11 on the VW Classic Parts link above)
    Often they are missing, but don't worry, pm me if yours are because I have a few genuine sets. They are necessary due to the angle of the shafts and joint articulation, so if they are missing that may just account for the boot splits?

    Also, because of the spacer fitment, the front inner bolts are 5mm longer than standard T3 or syncro rear inners and outers.
    So, if you buy the full inner joint kit (standard T3 rear fitment) the supplied bolts will not be long enough and will fail.
    Good luck....:thumbsup:

    Edit. It's sort of bay related because, apart from the syncro front outers, the cv joints on the T3 are the same as our T2's...:D
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2019
    art b, Lasty, mcswiggs and 1 other person like this.
  5. My record was about 3 months for some GSF boots.
    I am now on genuine Volkswagen ones, which at £35 each look like they will work out cheaper over a couple of years than the cheap ones..
    art b likes this.
  6. Did you buy them off VWH when they came across a load of NOS boots ...i managed to buy all 4, the difference of the quality of the rubber visually and the feel of them is massive ..especially when you put the two together .
  7. Thanks for all your input.
  8. Well I'm going to do these myself so how tricky/awkward is it? I replaced the Joints on my old T25 but that was the rears and wasn't too bad. However, these are fronts and it's a syncro so I know its going to be different. Any guidance appreciated.

    Thanks for offer I'll take you up on that!

    theBusmonkey likes this.
  9. It's pretty straight forward @burnzdog . As you're doing both shafts, its way easier to drop the front diff first which means you have no need to remove the bearing carriers, calipers etc.

    Just drop the diff, remove the anti roll bar drop links, which allows the outer cv to be withdrawn inboard towards where the diff was, and gently tap the axle shafts inwards to drive the cv and axle assembly out of the hub.
    Undo the big axle nut before you get the bus off the floor, then wind it to the end of the axle to protect the thread when you drive the shaft out of the hub.

    Diff is easy, loosen left and right mounts, remove bash plate and loosen front mount. Loosen prop bolts and move the diff forward to break the joint at the prop flange. Remove prop flange bolts and gently lower it to the ground.
    Dont drop it, they are balanced.
    Undo inner cvs, hang shafts out of the way and remove 3 diff mounts.
    Undo and slide out the plate the front mount is bolted to and wrestle out the diff.
    Its heavy, be careful. I dropped it on my chest once and it smarts!
    It needs a bit of jiggery to remove so watch the fingers. Easier with two!
    Then undo axle nuts, raise the bus, wrestle the drop links off (again its easier to remove the whole anti roll bar by undoing the chassis mounts as well as the lower drop link nuts), then tap out the drive shafts, complete with both cv's
    The CV's themselves will be held on the shaft by snap rings. A pig to get off without horseshoe pliers.
    Take them to the local transmission guy if they are beyond your patience.
    Then its all about cleaning, inspecting and possibly replacing.

    If you pm me your whatsapp or email, ive got some pics I can send if you wish.
    I'm currently working with Aidan Talbot on the T3 gearboxes he specialises in so if you need any assistance on the rest of the drive train give me a shout...
    nicktuft likes this.
  10. Diff has speedo cable attached, remove this carefully.
    It also has a breather tube bolted to the top by a 14 mm banjo.
    This also needs to come off before you finally drop it out, but its easier to get to when the diff is loose.
    Dont break the speedo drive. For what they are they are eye wateringly expensive.
    If your front diff has a locker the external mechanism will also have to come off.
    Spray everything liberally with plus gas or wd40 a few days before attacking it...
    nicktuft likes this.
  11. Ok think I'm going to take this to a garage to do.
  12. So in order to replace the boot I need to remove the whole shaft? Which means removing wheel? want to do this myself and I thought I wouldn't be to difficult bit it's sounding more complicated than I thought. Want to take advantage of MOT retest but both looking more unlikely.

  13. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

  14. .
  15. You need the stub axle out of the hub before you can remove the outer cv, which is connected to the shaft, so yes...the shaft is removed as I described above.:thumbsup:
    It may be just possible to remove the inner cv in situ, but only with the diff out of the way. Bear with....
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2019
    nicktuft likes this.
  16. If the OP didnt want to inspect the outers, it may be an option and you'd have a go, maybeeeee, in the field.
    Bear with Hoff...
    nicktuft likes this.
  17. IMG_20190718_172354.jpg
    Front outer
    See the clip below, you need 3 hands and to be able to celery the joint off the shaft coz they're tight
    Bear with...
  18. IMG_20190718_172428.jpg
    That clip sits in the groove on the shaft...
    So the pic above is the inner. That circlip is accessible, but only with the diff out. If the diff is out, why wouldnt you just tap the whole shaft out and do it cleanly on the bench.
  19. So Mr Lovely @davidoft , why don't you do some work on your multiple syncros and feel the pain of full ownership:D:D, oh and you'd be able to come and play xx
    nicktuft and davidoft like this.
  20. So, no need to separate the outer cv from the shaft if you dont want to do more than just the inners, but doing the inners is easier with the shaft out, and may not be possible with the whole shaft in situ anyway.
    Diff has to come out to get the shaft out for reasons above. Its not that hard honestly.
    Get Bentley and follow the process. Garage will charge you big bucks and really you want a mechanic who is syncro sympathetic.
    We put right lots of wrongs here in the work shop. Loads of bodgers out there who are quite capable of wrecking your van by cutting corners.
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2019

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