Clutch help

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by mjones1969, Aug 21, 2016.

  1. I have swapped the gearbox on my type 4 1800cc from a 3 rib to a 6 rib that has been reconditioned, the problem is that i cannot get gears with the engine running (I can get then with the engine stopped).
    I kept the clutch as it looked new with no wear, it is fully adjusted and I cannot get any gears.
    Bentleys and haynes mention a bend in the outer clutch tube but mine is straight and it doesn't bend.
    Have I missed something basic?
     
  2. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    Pictures always help
     
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Did you remember to fit the release bearing? Been there... :mad:
    What does clutch feel like?
     
    mjones1969 and Flakey like this.
  4. Yep its in, I have also replaced the clutch cable which is adjusted to the max.
    with the original box there was a stack of washers between the wing nut and the arm, I thought the cable must of stretched so I replaced it
     
  5. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    Put them back on that'll also give you the bend in the outer cable you mentioned, actually they probably need to be between the outer cable end and the bracket to lengthen the outer!
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    What does the pedal feel like?
     
  7. the pedal feels a little heavy.
    Its as if the new clutch cable is too long but i have packed it with washer in front of the wing nut, if i try to start it in gear the bus moves so the clutch is still engaged.
    I'm beginning to think its the pressure plate :(
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2016
  8. [​IMG]
     
    mjones1969 likes this.
  9. put more on...:thumbsup:
     
    mjones1969 likes this.
  10. I have even a big nut and washers on, now the pedal is very heavy and still cannot get gears :mad: should have bought an auto.....
     
  11. if the pedal is heavy , then it is pushing the clutch...:thumbsup:

    off for a bike ride to think about it....:D
     
  12. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    Washers under the wing nut aren't really doing anything , they need to be in position A as in vwed's pic
     
  13. Yes I put them at position A but ran out of thread as the wing nut was right to the end and still cannot get the gears with engine running, so added under wing nut to give more pull on the cable and still the same
     
    Flakey likes this.
  14. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    Is there any movement left on the arm if you pull it by hand after the pedal has pulled it as far as it can?
     
  15. was the clutch centered ,did the engine just slip into the box?

    think you need to remove it...
     
  16. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    Was the 1800/ 3rib box original to the bus?
    Do you know what size clutch is in it?
    I think a 6 rib which is normally mated to a 2.0 would have a 228mm clutch which I seem to recall has a deeper case,hence why they don't fit pre '75 bellhousings on 1600 boxes.
     
  17. adjusted all the play/slack from the arm, wing nut with stack of washers and a large nut, full pedal travel really heavy at the lower end so I think it wouldn't go any more
     
  18. Yep used a clutch alignment tool, and went together surprisingly well
     
  19. the 1800/3rib were in the bus when i got her but it was a CA code which is an early 1968?
    I'm pretty sure it was a 210mm and looked as new
    interesting thoughts on the bell housing, i can check and measure :thinking:
    tried to up load photos and failed, sums up the day...................time for wine,beer,whiskey :burp:
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2016
    Flakey likes this.
  20. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    In that case I'm fairly sure your new bell housing is deeper and so the release bearing isn't reaching the clutch, probably fixable with a 228 clutch and flywheel set up
     
    snotty likes this.

Share This Page