Why can't you take the engine out on the drive and push the bus back in the garage overnight if necessary? Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
My garage floor is perfectly level...... My drive is not, it runs up to the garage at a fair angle..... hence my reluctance to start outside.
Although you know what to do and how to do it, you have now mentioned about the steep drive issue and the van not having enough room above it to raise it in the garage to take the engine out. If that's correct, I can understand why in the first post you are thinking of getting a garage to do the job. Personally I would do just that.
I think that's where it's heading doing it on the floor in the garage was the only real option..... but clearly that's not feasible either. Thanks for the input guys...... the extra thoughts and experience have saved me some mighty ball ache.
I have the same clause in my insurance so if I ever need to do a longer job that is going to make it difficult to get the van put away I visit my parents and do the work there. Any nearby relatives or friends you can visit? Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
I would suspect that for the payment of an additional fee your insurers might permit a bus that has been immobilised up on ramps or on axle stands to be left outside for a couple of days. But as the driveway is steep you will be better off paying a garage this time. Then add up what the garage bill plus insurance premium comes to and shop around to find a more expensive policy that will cover the bus outside 24/7 and will still probably cost less than the sum of what you just paid the garage and your insurance policy.. If I was doing this myself I would drive the bus up on ramps and lift the back by about a foot and maybe leave the engine under the bus. You only need a socket spanner to take off the clutch. The gearbox oil seal is fiddly but straightforward. The big issue is getting the right sized clutch plate.. Some later 1600s came with 215mm plates . Just make sure your local GSF has both 200 and 215 in stock.. Its worth doing as eventually the clutch can slip totally at high load with a good coating of gearbox oil. The engine oil leaks tend to be thrown out by the flywheel and so ae less of aisk.
Sat at work musing over this..... I take it the flywheel is on with several bolts..... will a rattle gun take them off?
Feck it..... might just have to sleep in the van if it has to stay out...... it would be a robbery rather than a theft of motor vehicle then if someone takes it..... quite a different thing I called my garage today to book her in...... and the boss was on his way to hospital having a suspected heart attack. So I'm on my own as I don't trust the other spanner monkeys round here.
If you take the clutch plate off with a rattle gun , do it up by hand, the torque settings are not very high for either 8mm (200mm clutch) or 7mm (215mm clutch) bolts. Any socket set will do. Sorry misread the OP on which seal is leaking. But with a Torquemeister you will save yourself a lot of faff trying to keep the engine still while levering around with a big breaker bar. I think the torque going into the Torquemeister is about 26 ft Lb to do up the nut or undo it, easy with a standard socket set. And make sure that wherever and whenever the flywheel comes off: The little O ring inside the flywheel that seals the join with the end of the crank must be replaced as that will be where the oil that gets onto the clutch leaks through.
