just wondered if anyone with a 284 duration cam has added more advance at idle to smooth it out? Seems logical to me, provided you can knock back total advance before pinking....
Cheers Zed....just playing with the settings at the moment...having probs with smooth idling and suspect the jetting on the weber prog isn't spot on, but I think it's being masked by the cam...found a great book on improving ignition systems for stock and modded motors: The author lists cam duration against idle advance...reckons btw. 8 and 10 as a ball park to get the engine started , but suggests you keep notching it up in small increments until you achieve the smoothest idle....then turn it off and see if the engine restarts with that timing....if not, back it down a bit until it starts reliably. All this assumes you'd then be tweaking the total advance and rate by changing springs etc. This was where I was getting bogged down....relying on stock figures and curves for a non stock motor....just found that you can programme a different advance for cranking and another for idle on the megajolt...may seem like a faff, but should pay dividends in the long run
Spark-balance like a 123! That'll smooth your idle out. Really, I would've thought you'd have considered that, a man of your calibre ...
Mine idles just fine with stock 7.5 degs. So does everyone else's apart from peeps with single choke twin carbs and no balance pipe... and yours. Maybe it's the carb. You certainly know how to make life difficult for yourself.
I'd google it but I haven't got the exergy.... it's a learning curve with this megajolt it's one of my many skills....
I might pull the Megavolt code and see if something's there already. Are you jolting or squirting? If you're going to jolt, you might as well squirt.
Awwww. Might as well do both. Someone should start selling throttle bodies, then we could all squirt.
mid range Honda VFR or Suzuki GSXR's are ideal...and cheap...Mario at the the Dubshop does a full kit ready to install, based on the Mexi beetle FI.....works out around £1500 from what I remember, including the ECU, loom, etc....sounds expensive, but if i were starting a new project from scratch, this would be the way to go, cam synced on a 2 Litre Type 4 block...bags of power, good mpg and reliable/tuneable...
yes...using an empi billet pulley with one of mario's trigger wheels welded on...sensor behind the pulley speed shop do a nice kit but it won't work with Ford Edis/megajolt, because the default offset is different...i asked them why they didn't just machine another woodruff slot in the trigger wheel so they could sell it for use with emerald/megajolt/omex etc.....didn't want to know...their loss
And the sad thing about Megasquirt is that you have to fill in all the tuning curves, while it seems that quite old Lucas injection controllers were known for tuning themselves. (one reason is they could use a knock sensor without it being confused by VW aircooled rattles) So you could mess with a LandRover engine and then the EFI would learn it, or keep it in tune while it fell apart.
I run a MJ system in my engine, using a Mario TR. I used a MAP sensor and small plenum chamber for pulse reduction. I have a pretty stable map on a 1955cc engine, c35 cam and twin 36 DRLA Dells. PM me if you want a copy or advice on the MJ.
Always good to know someone who's been there before....you may learn to regret offering some help! still at the tinkering stage tbh....still running a SVDA for setting up, but having trouble getting a stable idle to tune the carb. I'm beginning to fear that the cam may have been flattened by the scrote who did my respray years ago....new built engine, not yet run up...found out his 14 year old lad was titting about up and down the yard in order to move it in and out of the workshop...found out when I got a call from the paintsprayer to say he'd adjusted the clutch...
This is my 2nd MJ instal, 1st was on a ford Crossflow with TPS. Let's hope the little scrote managed to keep the revs up and slipped the clutch
