Hi all, So I have a few questions that hopefully some of you can shed some light on I have a bug with a 1641 twin port in it. It has quite excessive end float. Looks to be pushing 2mm but not measured it yet as only got hold of it yesterday. So I am assuming that I will have to fix it pronto! I don't know anything about the engine and haven't checked anything else on it yet. When driving under load you can hear a knocking noise which I'm guessing is the crankshaft moving back and forth. At the moment, I think my plan is to drop the engine, properly measure end float, whip the flywheel off and check shims and also if the bearing is moving in the casing. I have never rebuilt one of these engines before so am after some advice. What I think I have found out by reading up on stuff is that I could get the case align bored and put some oversized bearings on the crank. Is this correct? Is it different sized bearings or do you get shims for the outside of them? As you can tell, not completely sure what I'm doing yet! Could anyone explain the process that is needed and how much is doable at home and what I'd need to get done by a machinist? If I have the engine in bits and it's going to be my daily transport then I think it will make sense to build it up as best as possible, but obviously I have a limited budget. Could anyone on advise on what the best things to do/replace are when rebuilding. For the time being I am going to assume the top end is ok (rightly or wrongly) so figured I would concentrate on the bottom end. Then could sort top end out if needed when I get some more funds. Is there an obvious way to know if the case has completely had it? Is there particular measurements that I could take to confirm? I have no pictures at the moment as like I said I only picked it up yesterday. Any advice or info you guys could offer would be massively appreciated Or does anyone know anyone in Herts who could take a look? Many thanks as always for you help Nick
oh When you say internals what do you mean by that? crank and bearings, rods, cam shaft and bearings? DO you know what the best way to tell if it's all knackered? Or is it pretty obvious once you get it apart......... Cheers Nick
i would have thought that someone on here would rebuild engines .. and could pm you if not i had one rebuilt and was more then happy with it ... O0
I rebuilt a 1500sp into a 1600 sp with the aid of a dvd from ebay, which was an old fella in a shed stripping down an engine and rebuilding it, but what he was doing at the same time was telling you what to check and the measurements that things should be, also bugme ( i forget which no.) has a rebuild DVD but the old fella in his shed was great.
Anyone can put an engine together its very easy, but.............. To build an engine properly you need specialist equipment to measure the tolerances & pullers etc to strip the parts down, if you want my advice ring Tudor Morgan, send him the whole engine warts & all & tell him you want it back like new, you won't regret it. Other firms will do an engine rebuild but Tudor will do all the ancillaries as well it will look like a new turn key engine coming back.
take it apart and measure the thrust faces of the thrush bearing there is a minimum to be salvageable ,if it has masses of end float the flywheel will rub on the case and the rods can wear the jurnals funny , plus depending on how many times it has been aligned bored in the past ..
Thanks for the replies so far guys. I will get the engine dropped soon and take it apart and get my vernier out. Really hoping to rebuild myself as I fancy the challenge Fingers crossed the case isn't completely mashed....
At 2mm, you're gonna be looking at a loose thrust bearing in the case, so at the very least the case will want boring for oversize bearings, and the crank will probably want a regrind...
Well I just got home and nipped out to the car. I know this is not the way to do it but I used a vernier between the timing pulley and engine block and measured 0.36mm movement. I know it's not the way to measure it but at least it seems a way off 2mm that I initially thought. Maybe I might be able to shim that? He says hopefully..... Nick
I'd say you won't be able to shim that... shims come in a max thickness of 0.35mm, and you only ever install 3 shims... no more, no less!!
Hmmm, yeah good point Paul..... Oh well. I'm hoping to drop it this weekend so long as I can get my mate round to help. Got a broken foot at the mo so working on the bug ain't that straight forward!
