Anyone fitted electric underfloor heating?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Merlin Cat, Apr 11, 2018.

  1. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    :thumbsup:
    Have to be a few Kw in that one?
     
  2. Yes,don’t know how many but there were three separate mats/loose wire , but the lady of the house insisted she didn’t want any radiators in there as she disliked the look of them


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  3. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    Might have mis-read this but couldn't you take advantage of the 18mm difference to bump up the insulation under where the heating wire runs, to make it a touch more efficient?
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2018
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  4. Can you not fit the backer board in place of the 18 mm ply under the tray as well as the rest of the floor and bed the tray onto it with cement or flexible tile adhesive?


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  5. Are you installing a resin tray and ideally trying to create a level floor or is it a wet deck ?


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  6. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Not sure, maybe I should have done. I was just following installation instructions as I don’t usually fit such big trays. The tray isn’t in yet so could give manufacturers a bell to see if slimmer cement board acceptable;)
     
  7. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Stone resin, it weighs a flipping ton! Trying to get a level floor that doesn’t flex :)
     
  8. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    There’s already insulation between the joists so I think it will be ok thanks.
     
  9. This probably doesn’t help !!!
    You can use Wedi board to raise levels instead as it comes in various thickness, it’s lighter and more manageable
    You can stick this down over the existing floor board but ideally remove and lay WBP ply.
    If you lay ply your need to seal and lay Ditra matting with flexible tile adhesive for wood prior to laying heat mat.


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  10. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Finally decided to cut floor boards out and baton as floor so sloping. Tested the drainage with decreased fall and all ok. Shower tray now nic and level. Manufacturers said I have to use 18mm ply and sand and cement to hold. The 6mm Hardie backer is adhesived and screwed down. Think it needs levelling compound before tiling.

    Ps rad pipes look crooked as not secured yet as want to drop floor tiles over them so not tightened nuts. Rad isolated in landing :)

    F69B00EA-C75A-4956-8B6B-EC1B2E7C9771.jpeg
     
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  11. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    They look bigger on the inside than the outside these bays don't they?
     
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  12. Nice work Alex
    If you can get some wet room tape and brush on rubberised sealer , that can be applied to all the gaps etc prior to tiling


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  13. Belt and brace job


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  14. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    I'm taking notes here :thumbsup:
     
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  15. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Cheers. :) We’ve got some tape that came with the cement boards. What sealer would you recommend please? I think we are going to have to put self leveller on before the heating cables as the floor (apart from the shower tray bit) is on an incline!
     
  16. Bal or Mapei do trowel or brush on waterproofed/ sealer. Most tile sheds will stock it even if it’s their own brand.
    I would stick the heat Matt down directly to the Hardybackerboard
    With heavy duty spray adhesive just hold it down flat , otherwise it has a tendency to curl. Then apply latex levelling compound



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  17. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Thanks :) we are using heating cable rather than matting as not a block of area. I just need to run the cable around and tape it down. The customers have chosen fairly big porcelain tiles for the floor. I thought maybe level the floor then tape the heating cable down, then tile it on top. Do you think it would be better to lay the cable, then leveller, then tiles?
     
  18. Yes


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  19. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Ta. I’ve been swotting up since my last post, found a good site that agreed with your recommendation :thumbsup: x
     

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