Anyone done a Passat 1.9tdi in a bay

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by darranj, Nov 16, 2017.

  1. I’ve got the following that I might be selling soon.

    VW 1.9tdi AFN engine
    VW 012.301.103 WW010 5 speed gearbox
    Full wiring loom including ecu
    Porsche GT3 radiator
    Standard turbo as well as a VNT20 Turbo
    VW T25 JX wedge sump

    Came from an 80k car. Bought it from a well known fella off SSVC so have no reason to doubt it’s not genuine.

    Don’t think I’ll ever find the time to fit it
     
  2. How much are you looking for it
    Cheers
     
  3. Sent you a message mate
     
  4. Have still got any of this left ?
     
  5. Thorsten - did I meet you at busfest this year? Think me and my mate Andy had a wander over to your grey bay and had a look over?
    If so would you mind putting some pics up in this ‘modified shizzle’ section of the forum of your flipped box? I am doing this now


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  6. Hey, yes that was me, funny where people meet again. Hope I can make it again to busfest next year.
    Will look what pictures I have...
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    Last edited: Oct 29, 2018
    illzlee likes this.
  7. For those of you who speak some German (and are interested in the conversion): I posted my story in a German T2 board (see https://forum.bulli.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23567&hilit=012)
    A couple of pictures also uploaded here, hope they help but of course they can only give a high level idea of how this works.
    There are tons of different versions of the gear. Documentation is good, so you can easily simulate and calculate in Excel which one you should take. Mine is a CGT of an Audi 80.

    First of all, you need to cut the gearbox by 15mms to compensate the adaptor plate. Several ways of doing that, I used a router, others built a frame around a grinder that allowed for 100% precisely slide around the gear and cut it off. But BEFORE you cut, do not forget to first make the holes for the sleeves (hope that's the rights translation) deeper, as these will have to ensure that engine and gear sit 100% in line. If you forget that step your box is lost.
    Gear ventilation needs to be closed. Simply push a short piece of rubber hose on it and closed it with a screw and two clamps. The hole for the new ventilation on the 'new upside' of the gear is in the corner of the diff housing. As far away of the diff wheel as possible, otherwise you will loose oil. How that looks like you can see on the 'Gear1' picture I attached. Oil needs to be more than original 2.4l, some use 2.9l others 3.5. I am somewhere in the middle.

    The only real challenge are the drive shafts. The Audi gear is 20mm narrower than the the Bay gear, and the drive shafts would come 16cm(!!!) higher than original. The joints won't survive that, they can physically handle a max of 23° and 18° permanently at low rotation due to temperature (for those who want to read: http://www.gknservice.com/fileadmin...h/CV_Driveshafts_Industry_SpecialVehicles.pdf, rotation*angle<15000 is the formula). Ideally the angle should be max 8° also because high angles stress the bellows. Total angle in mine is ca. 15°, coming from 12° vertically and some degree because the box is longer and therefore joints come more to the rear. Move the gear as much forward as possible! But key is to bring gear and engine closer to the ground and you must (!!) lower the bus, but not too much as the shafts would then hit the frame. We don't want to cut the frame...
    Space between ground and the adaptor plate on mine is (I think) 17cm, you could make less possibly.
    Also you need to compensate for the 20mm that the gear is narrower, plus a few mm to compensate the higher angle: Adaptor plates between the inner joints and gear, which also allows to use different models of the gear (old 012 have 100mm, later 108 or 130 for tripods) and keep your joints, or use bigger joints if you think you need them.

    Btw: there is a good facebook group (also German) where this conversion is discussed (https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1697402533864840&ref=content_filter), a closed group.

    Shifting: Convert to cable. The stick (VW Lupo, converted to have reverse on the rear right, just need to cut off a bit) is now between the front seats, mechanics at the box are self-created, ball joints are cheap on eBay. The cables are maritime stuff and quite cheap.

    Clutch: You need to convert to hydraulic. The cylinder in the gear stays original Audi. In the front I used the one from a T4. To make this work the lever under clutch pedal needs to be extended, and pedal itself needs to be limited in the way it can move down. Mine goes down only about 50% now.

    Will try to make a few more pictures in the next days if someone is interested. Pictures tell more than words.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
    nicktuft, art b, Valveandy and 2 others like this.
  8. So, here come a few more pictures which hopefully help a bit when you're trying the same.
    First shows how low the bus is now. As mentioned, the bus must come down if you don't want the engine to hang somewhere under the car and not inside.

    Height of the engine over ground is the key thing you have to keep in mind as this defines the angle of the drive shafts. The deepest point is the adaptor plate, 12cm over ground. You may win another 2.5cm if you cut a bit off the gear and adaptor here, allowing to bring down the engine further. And even without that 1or 2cm lower would still be OK in my setup (will do that next time the engine is out).

    Next pic shows space between shaft and frame. 4cm in my case, not much. Car should not be lower, but engine should be. But it works.

    Next pic: engine bars are originally from an Audi 80B2 (so is the flywheel), extended to come closer to the frame left and right, the mounts are from an E36.

    Next (very dark, sorry) : front gear mount against the frame. Guess here everyone has to reinvent the wheel, most people seem to take the T3 mounts here and modify them. Only important thing is the big metal plate you bolt against the head of the box, that should be quite massive and you should know how to weld. The plate has 3mm in my case.

    Last pics: the gearstick. I would have preferred to keep the original, but with the cable shift I did not find a way of doing this without lots of cutting. And you should build the mechanics for the cable so they rather move long ways with little pressure, which was also a factor here. On the other hand this position is really comfortable now...


    Hope this helps [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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    Last edited: Nov 4, 2018
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