We used to have a combi that suffered from low mains pressure. If you did not have enough hot water flow through the shower because the pressure was too low the switch wouldnt click over. Lots of faffing with the restricter valve that was across the pressure switch...
I had to completely remove a flow restricter from one earlier in the year as the mains flow rate was so poor. Which begs the question what sort of monkey arsed installer fits a combi in a house with pressure as bad as the one I worked in.
Yep. That’s the kiddy. I can’t remember 100% but on some of those you can’t buy a replacement, you swap out the brass block. you could try cleaning it up with a wire brush. Again I can’t remember, does that model have a hall sensor on that turbine? If it does, pop the sensor off first. Clean up the turbine, dry and refit the push on sensor.
Done a quick search, not using the GC number so it would need double checking but it looks like it’s available as a fairly cheap spare.
Thanks. Will have a look in the morning. Can it be changed by a non heating engineer type Herbert? Ie. Me.
Yes. It’s on the mains inlet side of the boiler so no need to drain the heating. Isolate the dhw water using the tap underneath. If you don’t know which one it is, turn on a hot sink tap, turn off one of the isolators under the boiler and see if the water stops flowing. Leave the sink tap open. Remove the Hall effect sensor from the turbine. Using a set of grips rotate out the brass turbine, some water will come out so have a cloth ready. Refit new turbine in reverse. before you do this I really would just try cleaning up the bits you already have fitted. This works on the principle of a Hall effect. Basically when you switch on a tap, an impeller spins, mounted to the shaft of the impeller is a magnet. As this rotates it induces current, which is detected by the clip on sensor on the outside. If thee is a load of crusty stuff between the brass body and the plastic sensor then it won’t detect the magnetic field and won’t change to dhw mode. Also on some sensors the induced current will light a tiny led on the sensor as a simple way to prove its detecting flow. It should remain a solid light for the entire time it’s lit, and not flash or switch on or off whilst a hot water tap is turned on. Told you my job was easy.
Probably easier is just to undo all of the pipe unions you can see in the boiler, particularly the gas supply
Then cross them over. Hours of fun watching the kids try to run a bath and filling the bathroom with gas.
Soooooooo.... took off sensor (harder than it should be). The top of the turbine appears to be the source of the water. The clip appears to be corroded. Cleaned it up, tried to put it back together. Got it to fire using a magnet. Now it is firing with no magnet and the sensor outside the boiler - odd. Also, the turbine seems to be very leaky! replacements needed I think??