Just bought a refurbished engine from a well known vw engine company. The engine has been returned once for a knock which was put down to a con rod so that should now be sorted. I also wasn't happy (neither was my vw mechanic as there was end play at the pulley end). They have stripped engine and reshimmed to improve the end play but I have just put it back in and can still hear some and feel end play when push and pull the pulley hard with it back in the van. With it on a bench I couldn't feel it as the engine just moved when I tried. I admit the end play is a lot less and not as loud as before before I start contacting them again can I check something. The company did tell me some play is normal (they quoted some thousands of an inch) but seeing other engines they don't seem to have it. I can't actually see it moving only when I really give the pulley a proper push and pull so I don't think it's much. What should I do. There's a years warranty but I'm not keen to keep pulling it out especially if there going to say it's normal . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You need a slight bit or it will seize when hot and spin the bearing, as long as the bearing is not moving in the case its not so much of an issue, you need to measure the movement though as it will pound the case if left.
Thankyou 3901mick! I'm going to buy a dial indicator to get a figure on it. Do you or anyone know what the figure should be or a figure that you would class as too much? Sorry also I'm rubbish with inches so if anyone knows the fraction of mm that would help a lot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There is a specification. It is quite small but should not be visible. Get a Bentley Service Manual book with the dial indicator. Its meant to be 0.07mm to 0.13mm There are two sources of the endplay : one is the crank moving slightly in the main thrust bearing : the shims adjust this one. The other cause is a loose bearing which should not happen. That may be why it seems a small movement until you pull hard. I would start getting suspicious. It may well be OK. But £1000+ really doesnt include enough for a new crank case. So you are the recipient of somebodys worn out crank case machined to take larger bearings or re faced to remove wear in the thrust bearings. A £50 per hour plus skilled engine workshop can do things to fix up a worn case, we dont pay mass production engine rebuilders enough for a quality job.
As Mick says you do need a bit of end float to stop it moving. Problem is , IS the end float occurring because the 3 shims haven't been measured properly and need to be a bit thicker, OR is the fly wheel bearing moving back and forth in the crank case, This might be the pulley movement you are feeling. If its the bearing moving with in the case it will get worse. You could ask if this engine has had a thrust cut on the bearing saddle to take up any slack , There are different size flywheel bearings in terms of the case cut size, the crank size and the thrust face size. Is it moving like 0.5 mm -1mm, That wouldn't be good.
As someone who may have to buy a refurbished engine in the long term - please name and shame. I really can't afford to buy a dud. It may even force them to up their game to the benefit of all. Stirlingmoz
Type 4's don't really suffer from end float, A little test to ascertain if your motor is a good one is this. Get in van ,turn off radio, windows up. start up engine and listen for a slight grumble, it might last for a few seconds till all the oil gets round the crank bearings. Well if you hear it that's bad. You gotta tune your ears in for it. I've heard it a lot over the years with peoples engines. Its the crank moving around in the crank bearings. It can be the crank bearings moving around in the case too.
The type 4 engine is not as bad although a worn crank should not be shimmed to make up for ware, you do need shims and a small small amount of end float but make sure they have not shimmed out the ware.
As above. The type 4 bottom end is quite a strong unit, and worth spending money on, as you can get a lot of mileage out of them.
This. Even those that get recommended knock out wrong'uns. It's how they deal with them that matters. (Unless it gives up miles from home....)
my rebuild from a well known supplier had a cracked head which they replaced and then lasted a couple of months.
Is it a type 1 engine? As the others have said, you do need some small amount of endfloat or the engine would likely seize when hot. If you can barely hear/feel it (but not see it) with the engine in place, it's likely ok. Worth measuring with a dial gauge on the pulley. If you can see it move, the problem's likely to be the flywheel-end bearing moving in the case.
Get them to sort it out. You have purchased a "reconditioned" engine, not a "put together with worn parts engine. Problem is to measure the end-float you really need to do it at the flywheel, that means getting the engine out. How far are they from you? Where are you located? Maybe someone can pop round and give you a second opinion. You want it to last 000's of miles, not run for 12 months and explode when the warranty has expired.
