Discussion in 'Show Us Your Ride' started by RustedPistons, Jun 16, 2023.
Yes please, thanks
Mostly, but some newer replacement heads (last 10-15 years) take different plugs. Best take one out to check.
This is also a description of cheap electronic ignition modules breaking down. You could try some points to check that.
Interesting - are there any recommended replacement ones? Might as well change that whilst I'm at it
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Pertronix used to be reliable but apparently not so good these days and to be frank - over priced at £100+. There might be nothing wrong with your existing module which is why I suggested popping a cheap set of points in to check. If the points cure your running problem you'll know your module is toasted. Generally speaking the most agreed on solution is a 123 distributor but it's quite expensive... then again for what you get it's better value than a pertronix II ignitor module.
I`ve tried quite a few in my hunt for `as-good-as-it-gets-without-going-down-the-spendy-123-route`....
Accuspark and its siblings are about as basic as you get but sort of work until it doesn`t and Pertronix have had their day .
Lumenition is as good as it gets to be honest , and that`s not just because i`ve got my `spare` for sale in the classifieds . As soon as it was fitted the tickover smoothed out and pickup was noticeably smoother - just saying ...
Hi guys -
I spent some time rewiring the coi9l - all the wires were joined with plastic blocks and one was even just twisted around with masking tape holding it together.
Unfortunately, I've mixed up one of the coil wires and I think I've fried the electronic ignition as I took the dizzy cap off to investigate and it smelt very much of burnt electronics! I may have done myself a favour looking at the above suggestions so I'm binning the electronic ignition and fitting points. They seem easy enough to get but the condensers seem to be square or round hole - is that referring to the little rubber grommet?
Also - I'd just like to check the wiring to and from the coil is right now before I fit the new stuff:
There are 3 terminals on the positive side:
one goes near to the distributer
one goes back into the loom above it
one goes to the carb
there are 2 terminals on the negative side
they seem to be green and black and they both go into a cable shroud.
Does this seem correct?
There should be one connection on the coil negative – green to the distributor.
Three on the coil positive – black from the ignition switch, black to the carbs and black to the reversing lights fuse.
Ah - the negative and positive come from an electric ignition module and I've mixed them up on the coil.
Thanks a lot - I wonder why it goes to the reversing lights fuse?
It's just a convenient connection to take 12v from for the reversing lights.
Made a start on converting the bus back to points ignition today. Turns out I bought the wrong condensor as my dizzy has a round grommet and the condensor has a square one.
However - the electronic ignition module has a positive and negative wire going to it. I'll just use the negative to attach to the new points but what should I do with the positive? Is it just a switchable live that can be removed?
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Most electronic ignitions just connect directly to the coil +ve and -ve, so if you've removed that then the condensor just needs hooking up to the coil -ve.
If you mean the supply from the ignition switch it remains connected to the coil positive. When you retrofit points the electronic module complete with its positive and negative cables is removed.
You know that VW black cables are positive I suppose? You probably fried the electronic module by connecting black to black – there should have been three VW black cables on the coil positive with a red from the module.
Yes that's what happened. I should've checked more carefully. I could smell the burnt module when I took the dizzy cap off!
I'll order a new condenser today and then hopefully I can get it running again.
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