Tried the rear wheel for fitment in the arch. Put the suspension back on the side with the completed arch and tried the 8x14. Tyre is a 185/65r14 Arch lip needs to be trimmed back but they fit Found my ratty centres also although these will be replaced with new moon caps as is cheaper than getting these replated And I've got opposite to everyone who fits a narrowed front beam, mines now a bit wider And while I was up the workshop i pulled out the welder again and did abit more New metal let into the rear tub where the old sink drain went Replaced the rotten corner of the cargo floor.removed the rot Remade a new piece to let in And fitted Then moved on the the inner bace section as it needed to be removed to access the corner repairs And finally for today i repaired the bottom on the 'c' pillar And a quick pic to show the depth of the rear wheel. Its easier to see after a quick coat of zinc As for the tyres these aren't the final ones but will be this size Front 7.5x14" rim with 175/65 tyre Rear 8x14" rim with 185/65 tyre Now to find some with higher load ratings
With the right offset 8" rims fit nicely under the rear arches. Am i right in thinking yours just had a band inserted on the outside?
You've now got an offset of 6mm on the rears and 14mm on the fronts. Thats gonna make it tramline like an absolute bitch and possibly wear wheel bearings out in double quick time.
Im yet to drive my bus so i won't know any different. I've had cars with crazy offsets before so used it all that comes with it. My old Renault 5 gtt ran et0 7.5x16 borbets
Small progress again. I can't wait to be getting the bigger panels on again. Before i could finish the tub repairs i needed to repair the rear chassis leg as i realised I wouldn't be as access it once the inner tub was completed. First up I re-welded the poor previous owners attempt. Then moved to the barely welded repair i the top of the chassis leg Not sure what was going on here but previous owner managed to cut into it Dodgy parts removed Fresh metal welded it The otherside needs some attention also, but nothin as bad. I need to re-make this panel for the passenger side of the bay also. Rear crossmember in place to check alignment Next up finish the inner tub and get the outter arch on
My engine bay has rotted almost exactly the same, at least vw are consistent, but you are moving along a bit quicker than me, well done.
Me too, due to the fact I am working away for 16 days this month. can't wat to get back to get stuck in! Nice job too! I need to rebuild the rear valance and crossmember too. Nice work as usual by the way.
A bit more done On day I'll get the welding perfect and won't need to grind it back While i was letting the panel cool after each bit of welding, I made a start on my turbo manifold I wanted to get more done but my grinder died so had to stop
Been up the workshop again this eve but have been having an off day and really couldn't get into the mood for messing around with bodywork so decided to cut up my old bugpack header and mock up my turbo header It will be loosely based around the cb performance header but i still have abit more to go.pipe angles need a lot of tweaking before i make a start figuring out how to make the collector
I shall have a look para Not sure if im going to run an ic or charge cooler yet. I don't really want to spend too much on it really as ultimately its not going to last haha
I've been looking at running a turbo on mine I've got a old turbo of a 1.7 van but was going to run a side draft 40 webber in front of the turbo as I've seen a lot running like this
Baybug, ive seen that also but I don't like the idea of fuel going through a hot turbo.also I want to mount the turbo below the tinware to keep as much heat out the bay as possible
I'll be running a Renault 5 gtt carb also as it fits in the standard inlet as it is a solex like the standard carb.also ive got a fair bit of experience modifying r5's as my old one was running around 200-210bhp