Although not a vw engine but may have some interest . The Foden 2 stroke diesel engine had ( in later design ) a supercharger on the induction ports half way down the liner and also a turbo charger on the exhaust ....the exhaust output was letting it down on power as was not getting out swift enough . A proto type exhaust system was fitted with a spiralling exhaust pipe within a silencer to assist out flow, similar principal to when you spin water round in a bottle it expels quicker than just letting it glug out . When it was all fitted to a truck and taken on a test run i believe the M6 , it suddenly at a certain rev burst into a uncontrollable power output making it surge forward . And after that the whole idea was no longer carried through .
Thanks for those detailed responses to my questions about the 1914cc and about how cc’s and torque are related. Other than the post on this forum by the VW Heritage guy and a few other posts on the internet where people have used a 1914cc engine in a bay I can find little else as to how they perform and what the reliability is like. I don’t want to take a chance as a reliable engine is really what I’m after. A 2110 of similar spec to paulcalf as mentioned earlier in the thread is very tempting but outside of my budget as it would require new components rather than reusing some of my existing engine components. I think the 1776 still seems the best option to me and as others have indicated they are very happy with it. I’ll be sure to have an Engle 100 cam or similar, and not the Engle 110 as has been discussed. What would people suggest would be the best combination of carbs and exhaust to get the best out of the 1776?
After spending the day doing 1950 king pin bushes and refurbishment of my 914 roof parts here are two porn pics .. Very rare upside down 2.4 turbo ( 300+bhp) And my SC in my 914 which I can’t workout how to rotate pic
We go off topic quite a bit, sorry about that. Twin carbs, preferably twin choke but twin single choke work fine (avoid a single progressive). And they’d need small venturis, no larger than 28mm. Use a Web cam if your budget can stretch that far and use Web lifters, Web 86 is similar to an Engle 100. http://webcamshafts.com/pages_vehicles/automobile/volkswagen_install_data/tc_000670_002436.html Which cylinders heads will you use? Don’t discount a 1911 just yet; if the cylinders are thick wall you won’t compromise reliability unless you always have the throttle wide open and you ignore cylinder head temperatures. And you will feel the difference for a burst of acceleration.
ICTs will do, and a 4-into-1. The JK stainless one is fine, even an EMPI will do (although the silencer will rust in two weeks). <edit> and as above, don't fit a single Weber progressive.
Agree with the silencer, less so with the dont fit a progressive. You can get it to work with a lot of work.
You won’t get the best out of a Web 86, Engle 100 or similar cam with a centre mount carb. You can get it to work but it wont work well.
Start buying original tinware if yours is rotten or aftermarket tat. CSP bell crank carb linkage (anything else is just not the same) Twin ICT Webber's are not the best out there but they work and can be brought new. Baby Dells are crazy money. A proper oil filter adapter the empi one I have needed reworking. The cheap empi manifolds if anything like mine needed about 6 hours work just to mate up to the heads and carbs properly buy CB performance or CSP. Heat exchangers not j tubs is my personal preference. Vintage speed exhaust (because shiney) Cone air filters are fine and give more room to work in the engine. A good starter motor because they are easy to change when the motor is out. And while the motor is out get your alternator reconditioned you won't regret it. Gets costly
I’ll be relying on someone to build the engine for me, but hope to gain enough knowledge so that I can make a small contribution in shaping the spec or avoid being sold something that wouldn’t be suitable. Knowledge is power and all that. Could you elaborate a little as to why web cams are better than engle? I think Engle seem to widely used by most of the larger companies selling off the shelf engines. I’d be very interested in your views on the 1914 and if you think this could be made to work with reasonable reliability? I had read the following ‘The maximum bore you can go to with the stock crankcase is 94mm. On the stock crank, this gives 1914cc. These have a good thick cylinder wall but their one disadvantage is that they have less fin area, therefore they can't dissipate heat as efficiently as the smaller sizes.’ If I were to floor the 1914 engine to get up to speed when entering a motorway, but then stick to 60mph or below, apart from the odd burst to get past lorries etc then I could expect to get a reasonable long life from the engine despite pushing a heavy bay around? Can the head temperature be accurately monitored so that I would know when to easy off when climb up hills etc?
Web cams have more accurate profiles, better surface finish and AFAIK are the only cams that are surface hardened, they should last longer and give consistent performance. All other cam manufacturers are more or less the same and Engle are used by companies selling off the shelf engines probably because they’re cheap. Exactly that^. If you want a little more torque go for bigger cylinders, if you want a little more engine life go for the smaller cylinders. If you accelerate quicker, drive faster and up hills the engine it will run hotter simply because there is more load. But if you don’t overheat the engine it should have a similar life as a standard engine.
If you get to a big hill where e.g. my 1641 setup drops back to 50mph , you will fry the heads if you open it up and try and go faster. With a 12:1 AFR, wide open throttle, the cylinder head temperatures at the Brazilian temperature sensor boss (well away from under the plugs) climb towards aluminium softening levels after climbing the hills.. The oil temperature with a cooler gets to just about 110C. This kind of journey is a killer.. That 971 ft ASL is just about Membury Services.. The stops are for petrol, turning left onto the M4, coffee break at Membury Services and stopping at the top of the M32.. Its the 'staircase' of climbs going the other way that really gets it hot going back from Bristol.
...which is where a big mild type-4 wins. I haven't met any circumstances where I could get my heads or oil anywhere near too hot, nor been slowed down by anything and I have tried! On the other hand it's hard on the engine and my heads need a skim (I'll just get a barrel fitting 0.5mm groove cut) and a 1mm copper gasket which will also lower the CR next year. Perhaps that will help the over size barrels from walking about. I'll stop thrashing it too as the general idea was that I wouldn't have to. And unload the extra 200kg I appear to be hauling around.
If your going to build a 1776 a Eurorace H grind cam is a better cam than an Engle 100 I've built both combo's. Standard valve size heads will work well . Twin 40 dells, 1 size lower on the vents from standard too. European motor works sell these cams. Ordering it is easy.
Do Eurorace make Type 1 cams? ‘H’ grind for a type 4 has 286 deg advertised duration and 0.485" lift similar to an Engle 110 or Scat C35, if the Type 1 ‘H’ has the same spec that’s a lot of duration and lift for a 1776cc bus engine. And it’s an ordinary cam like Engle or Scat; Web are in a class of their own.
