Looks like a similar setup to mine, assuming it is an alarm. I've got a Toad unit that has a central locking output. Can't recall whether it has separate L and R indicator drives. You could as @Gooders says use two diodes to isolate the L and R drives, but they'd have to be rated to handle at least two 21W bulbs. A 5A rating should be fine. Or use a double-pole relay to switch them, where the relay provides the isolation. Another poss is to look at the wiring diagram and see where the emergency flasher switch powers both together - from memory, this is how I did mine, so both pairs flash at once. The flasher switch itself is the best place to hook into this stuff, as everything's neatly labelled.
The He Bum Yu Genuine Schottky Diode Company of Shanghai. You don't need schottkys, BTW, unless your indicators flash really, really fast . <edit> Any 6A10 from fleaBay should do the job. Flasher switch first stop, I reckon.
Sorry Geoff only gave you half the info. Don’t know if you have any electronic component shops locally but since loosing the likes of Maplin & a local one closing a few years ago it’s easier to get em off fleabay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/192817654856
Nice! We just have pump switched from starter circuit to prime and alternator blue to run..or stop pumping if we kill the engine... but can jump a pretend blue feed to get pump running to fill chambers if stood a long time or carbs have been off for a fettle...we can use this if alternator dies to get us home too but if that many things are going wrong its time for home anyway Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Nice and easy to follow, thank you. Whilst I can wire it, I'm not 100% sure how it works. Please would you explain it for a thickie. I'm still not sure why my simple way isn't OK? I won't be insulted if you call me an eejit.
They're a different style for the later types and I can't read them. Compare a 71 to a 75 for instance. Also the fun is in the add-ons and bespoke bits.
I wasn't being flippant earlier btw, I really have no idea how to read the later ones . I actually find the older style more helpful when building the loom (I've only done one - this is my second). The other thing I do when building the the diagram is I keep each area of wiring in separate layers, so I can print each circuit separately if I need to. It's definitely a hobby. It's nearly done.
I started trying to do it once with one of the Microsoft programs.. too hard gave up but looking forward to seeing your finished article! Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
I'll be sure to publish! It's about 3/4 done. I taught myself to use Adobe Illustrator when I started my business, such a useful tool. The nice thing about it is that it is easy to make changes and move stuff around.
using the alternator as a relay trigger means if the engine stops the fuel pump stops ie in an accident or a burst fuel line. Its just an extra bit of safety. The timer relay is just there to prime the carbs during cranking before the alternator starts charging. The only thing i will alter is i will use an ignition feed to the main relay rather than a battery feed. It would then instantly cut the pump/valve on ign kill even if engine is still turning.
Yes I've just been relying on the ignition feed. Is it OK to use the same feed for both pump and solenoid, or should they have separate fused feeds?
Yes same feed for both. Both my fuel pump when running & the fuel cut solonoid only draw a couple of amps between them.
Another strange one is my wiper motor: My wiper switch is on a stalk and the 4 wires from it are: Black Black/yellow Black/grey Black/green Please would some kind soul confirm how these should be connected up and where to take a wire from to go to the fused live? I've been going round in circles with it.
Indeed I did. Nice and easy to drag wires around, even when they're two colour wires. Also kept each circuit on a separate layer to enable individual circuit printing. Very easy to modify for different layouts too.
I received these earth straps today. In an effort to avoid the flippin' VW scene tax, I found this company who make them (Alco) and these are 20mm wide (16mm2), m8 tags on each end and 300mm long. They'll make any spec you want and these two were a total of £8 posted! On the same subject of not paying over the odds, I also found some excellent adhesive neoprene tape from Corseal in Suffolk.