insulation

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by kenregency, Nov 14, 2013.

  1. Mine also had polystyrene bonded to the front panel when i picked it off it had original paint behind
     
  2. To be honest I don't think it does much. :)
     
  3. my view on it is if you just insulate part of a panel it leaves other areas more supseptable to condensation. we can go on for ever but............................. it is a bus after all and sealing anything right up totally is not good, vent the thing and its less likely to condense up ,same as drive it and it get air round parts that need drying . If you buy a classic car and put in a garage you need to heat it and humidify it to help reduce the risk of damp and hence rust simple as that really. Stop worrying about rust !!! n how hot you are !! or not!!:D
     
  4. Razzyh

    Razzyh Supporter

    I've got no insulation - it's bloody cold but man up la de la...

    Thoughts on garage - mines garaged over winter, I go and start it around once a month or so, may even take it for a quick spin if its taxed, I leave the drivers window open and I don't seem to get any damp, condensation etc.

    Garage is fairly dry and I have garages either side to mine so maybe that helps?
     
  5. Raymondo how can you tell people to man up and then say you garage your bus in the winter :D
     
    surfgir1, Dicky, Razzyh and 2 others like this.
  6. @baybirmingham ...if you're using foil-faced closed-cell type sheet, it needs to be stuck to the metal side walls of the van...(using spray glue)...this then provides an insulating air gap between the inner foil face and the Trim panel. Putting FF insulation directly behind the trim panel will create a gap between the insulation and the metal side wall...which is the exact opposite of what you're hoping to achieve.
    Exposed Rockwool battens behind the trim panel would benefit form an additional vapour barrier between it, and the trim panel..
     
  7. That's relief, because how you've described it is how I've done the rest of the van. Only the cab left to do now.
     
  8. Say i stuck foil faced closed cell foam to the steel panels of the bus
    Then packed the void with recycled plastic bottle insulation
    Then taped a plastic vapour barrier over that before fitting the trim panel on

    The vapor barrier would stop moisture from my breath,having the kettle on etc from penetrating and settling into the plastic bottle insulation
    The plastic bottle insulation would slow the escape of heat from the bus
    Then the foil lined close cell foam would reflect any radiant heat trying to escape

    Or am i wrong?
     
    theBusmonkey likes this.
  9. That's just below the belt @zed ;):lol:

    My only beef was to do with some of the advice that some people were giving...the original question was "What insulation and how to insulate your van, any help please?"
    I thought I answered the question reasonably well....if someone wants to question my reasoning, I'll do my best to qualify it.
    If the original question was "What's the cheapest way to retain some heat in the bus and improve on the stock sound-proofing?" I'd've answered differently BUT, I would have questioned the rationale behind using poor materials if you are going to go to the trouble of removing units, flooring, trim panels etc.
     
  10. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    The flip side of that is they also didnt ask how to insulate their van up to recording studio standards.
    Maybe the first response should have been "to what levels do you wish to insulate your bus?"
    Horses for courses: Most would be more than happy with the cheap and cheerful solution suggested by myself and others.
     
    chrisgooner likes this.
  11. No...it'd work well....but you wouldn't really need the additional vapour barrier...the recycled plastic insulation won't encourage water vapour to condense on it as any heat migrating to the van walls would be reflected by the foil face.
    One other issue: which is true for speaker enclosures as well...by adding fibrous material like rockwool, dakron, poly fill etc. your 'kidding' the enclosure that there's more air space than there actually is....this is why Sub Boxes can be made much smaller, from a design point of view. By 'creating' more air space, you're insulation acts as a heat sink...so you'd then need to provide more heat (in the shape of a Propex or whatever) to maintain an even level throughout the bus....you could end up with warm walls and condensation on your worktops:(
     
    paradox likes this.
  12. There's no flip side BS...it's the same principles...different structure
     
  13. Expect that rationalle to be thrown back at you:).
     
  14. Wouldent it be a pound a litre if it was from poundland;)
     
    zed, Lofty, vanorak and 2 others like this.
  15. That would have saved a lot of bother....
     
  16. I thought that but then again Im the kind of person that takes stuff to the till in there and asks how much it is!
     
  17. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    There is and I pointed out what it was.
    Feel free to continue arguing about the irrelevant, I've given my advice so I'm out.
     
  18. You can fall out in an empty house you!!
     
  19. Chill out BS;)
     
  20. The P*ssing Contest is that way>>>
     

Share This Page