Yes , the only thing you cant fit is the Bosch OG rubber sealing rings on the classicarleds LEDS, you wouldnt want to as they would limit airflow round the heatsink. The cooler it runs the longer it lasts.. You can reverse the heatsink by unscrewing it from the bulb and refitting it. The weatherproof and potted voltage converter brick can be cabletied to the metal ring that holds the reflector, so its all buried neatly in the bowl.
Thank you for that, I did email them to ask but easier to ask someone’s who’s already done it,they did recommend a different pair https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/pr...led-upgrade-bulbs?_pos=1&_sid=ad93ddb8b&_ss=r Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In my case one side did and the other didn't as the bowls were slightly different in depth/shape left and right. The tight issue with one was the thick cable at the end of the fitment not having enough clearance. I modified the tight bulb by cutting out with a dremel a piece of one of the cooling fins on the bulb housing so that the cable could slot into the space created.
I think the smaller design would obviously be better as far as fitting goes : my concern would be the cooling that LEDs need - with a filament bulb, the 90% waste heat goes mostly out of the front of the lens after being reflected off the bowl. In the case of LEDs the waste heat heats up the body of the LED assembly and does not radiate as the LEDs are not "black body emitters". And hot LEDs die of old age in hours, while hot halogen bulbs work properly. I certainly wouldnt fit the Bosch rubber seals over the LEDs - while good for protection, heat will be more of an issue then. So I would go for a design with a heatsink over one without, given the choice - you can also get extension cables for the power supply boxes for the type with heat sinks and fit the power supply inside the bus as an alternative. You would have to rewire the sidelight wiring too. Fit LEDs for those too. Almost bright enough to drive on the sidelights , slowly on a very dark road.. The headlamp bowls on my bus are Brazilian - the bottom 3/4 of a front panel complete with headlamp bowls being sold by Schofields at Dubfreeze for £20 back in 2018.
Mike fitted his box behind the bowl we stumped up the couple of pound for the extensions that lets the box sit inside the van I found it easier to have less stuff behind it. Works fine on both of ours.. get the lower profile side light bulbs , the taller ones can cast a bit of a shaddow on the bottom of the pattern.. not much. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
mine were like that so I went to get new bulbs. The man in the spares place came out to look at the van and said it’s your actual headlight that’s the problem. The silver bit was rubbish. I changed those and all was good. I have a long lost photo where I had the lights shining against the wall. One new, one old. I may as well have put a candle for the old one!
@Crispy ive found the post with my photo on! It was from years ago!! I can’t work out how to attach the post so have taken a screenshot
Makes a massive difference,I put a cheap pair in but because they didn’t sit quite right, I couldn’t adjust them correctly,they were extremely bright though and I kept getting full beam flashed at Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh right ,the silver in mine look pretty good but maybe they’re not good enough Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I have fitted some of the “classic car leds “lamps,I had previously removed the metal cups on legs (if you know what I’m on about)from inside the headlight unit,should I fit them back in again or are they not required for leds? Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, I believe you will need them.otherwise the beam pattern will be incorrect and you will blind people on dipped beam Sent from my AC2003 using Tapatalk
Those metal caps stop you seeing the the LED emitters directly through the lens of the headlamp- all the light has to go to the reflector first. I just went and looked.
Ok cheers,I’ve put them back in now,next job align the beam patterns Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
thanks for posting this - i'm swapping my cheapo reproduction rubbish back boxes for my rear lights to some good quality gen vw ones so i will upgrade the bulbs at the same time.
I painted the insides of the crummy Brazilian rear light holders white, the LEDs do have some emitters pointing straight back, so overall even with a Brazilian light cluster it's still much brighter than before.
discussed the last weeks in German forums: OSRAM NIGHT BREAKER LED H4-LED https://www.osram.de/ecat/NIGHT BRE...gbeleuchtung/de/de/GPS01_3695161/ZMP_4063288/ These have a small fan at the end that you only hear when the engine is not running, expensive, but more light and less power consumption... approved and legal in Germany inside HELLA H4 lights like this (used at T2, Rabbit and other old VWs): regards,
The OSRAM night breaker will fit into the H4 reflector but will the cooling fan fit inside the T2 bowl? There is very little clearance between the back of LED and the bowl on mine and I had to reverse the heat sink so the thick part was closest to the reflector.
my bus has mis-matched crummy aftermarket bulb holders so I picked up a couple of vw branded ones at volksworld on Sunday - yes I think you’re right they are likely Brazilian origin. I was thinking about painting them too as you mentioned but I found some aluminium self adhesive foil I had in the stash so I’ve used this, should be an improvement..? led bulbs from classic car leds arrived today so hopefully get everything fitted up tomorrow. I’m keeping my og hella lenses
They are likely Brazilian, but no matter. I don't think any of the rear clusters had reflectors in. A squirt of metallic paint if you must. The LED rear side/brake lights are a must - really work well, even without reflectors And a high-level brake light in the rear window, if you're feeling keen...