it would need setting properly but if your carb is a genuine quality old one i'm sure most people will agree rebuilding a genuine old one is a better option than a repro - although i guess it depends on how much you want to spend.
when he repaired the carb i recall him not putting a wire back could be off or loose again i will check fuel solinoid wires and coil wires too
Archie usually cuts out after the choke comes off then I restart him and he runs fine, thanks for starting this thread lots to go on with now! cheers guys
pouring down with rain again was hoping to bring her out for a run and sort running problems today but now wait to see if dries out . plenty of time off now must get some dry weather.
Hi just come back from my garage and tinkererd for ten minutes beleive it or not found a loose wire on the side of carb coming from the coil all done and drives nice. raise: thanks again all
now i can move on to my heat exchangerss and exuast as i ave already got lots of new parts for that job
I've removed my stock 1600 carb (34 PICT?), stripped it and blown through all the jets, then replaced it inside 30 minutes. If either the idle mixture or main jet mixture is running rich, the engine may stall when hot. This can also be caused by a dirty air filter. The small screw on the side is for adjusting the idle mixture. You can do this by feel, but it's better to use a CO meter and get it between 2% and 4% If the main jet is worn, it should be replaced. I think you can still get kits to replace various jets and the float valve.