What’s normal oil temp?

What oil temperature would you normally expect on average from a type 4? Obviously depends on ambient temp & how hard your working the engine but lets say cruising at 50-60mph on a mild day.

 

You know when you're in your boxers and you sit down on the bed and crash one down , that hot

 

If you have a oil temp gauge , if you go for a test drive ,it should sit at same temp and not rise dramatically . Mine was between 80 and 105 max but that’s type 1 . Type 4 boys will be along now to tell you what the type four does .

 

Old and Australian but still valid.

 

PS. If it’s less than 80c it’s too cold.

 

Reason for asking is i am surprised how inaccurate the vdo sender is. I have bench tested the sender as I thought the gauge was reading low. The resistance/temperature from 50c up to 150c is about 10c -15c out when i compare it to the vdo chart. I have tried two senders as I thought maybe the first was defective, however both are the same.
I suppose now I know the inaccuracy is 10c - 15c i can take it into account.
More of an oil temp indicator than a gauge.

 

10-15* out doesn’t sound right. Summut odd somewhere.

 

Here's our an a March day outing...no idea what temperature that dash is guess its 100?

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My newbuilt 1.8 gets up to or over the figures quoted on the sheet above pretty much but never over 120 yet.
After about an hour of 55-60 on a hard driven A-road or 60 on a motorway it’ll sit just below 120.
I’m not light on the throttle.
It’s only done 2000 miles so I’ve not pushed it that much yet.

I’m sure my supposed 1.7 before that ran a little cooler, but I suspect that it was actually a 2.0 since it was replaced before I got it and I can’t find a note of the number on the block, only the fan shroud thingy. I’d often do 65 (or 70 if I wasn’t paying attention!) on motorways and it read a little less. So I reckon it wasn’t working so hard at a given speed. Mind you the voltage regulator was also suspect and replaced with the engine as it wasn’t outputting high enough so that may account for any previous readings.

I checked the dipstick and gauge by getting a cheap digital meat probe. It’s not long enough to reach the sump but just hold them both together in something hot like boiling water for reference. They read almost identically.
Also my garage tested it against their calibrated dipstick and again, same.





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Do you have the correct sender for the gauge? I have the same 170C gauge but the sender is for 150C and on long climbs the temperature will indicate above 130C.

 

A 2.0l will be working just as hard as a 1700 at any given speed – the bus weighs the same and has the same wind resistance and the engine has to develop the same power to push it along.

 

Think so... it came with it out of an Audi... l'll check though as ours does visit 130° on long hills or when catching the end if a que on the motorway.. despite riching up the idle to try and lower crawling temps

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It will be overcooled at idle but the oil temperature takes a long time to react. If you use 20w50 oil a 15w40 would probably be cooler.

 

But the engines develop different amounts of power/torque at the same engine speed, so to maintain a given road speed with the same gearing they’ll be using more fuel to sustain that speed, therefore working harder and generating more heat especially when closer to max output/top speed, which will differ according to power output (all other things being equal)...no?

Otherwise we could all drive at 70-80 whatever the engine size and not overheat them.



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You said I had to strip down to my underpants when we went to volksworld, you said it was running a bit hot

 

There are two different calibrations of temperature gauge and sender made by VDO.
Yours is not necessarily inaccurate, just mismatched. Somewhere I have a PDF showing the two, I will try and dig it out.

Basically we should use a 150 degree oil sender/ gauge combo,
but VDO also do a 120 degree water sender/gauge combo. Mix the two and its not accurate.

 

Very valid point Mike, I found out the hard way on EBay....

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I agree different engines have the potential to develop different amounts of power/torque at the same engine speed but if the load is the same so is the power. Say you cruise along at 55 mph in a 1700 it might have to make 40bhp to push the bus along without increasing or decreasing speed. And if a 2.0l is going at the same speed it too has to make 40bhp – if it developed more power the speed would increase.

 

130º sounds slightly crazy. Did you do the boiling water/kettle test on the sender/gauge?

 

No, thought numbers just usually looked about right and assumed the spike was just down to the sudden drop in speed. Might have a play to calibrate it before next summer... After rebuilding another engine (different one to this... it still seems to go fine)

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