Most of my external stuff on the engine is missing (all ignition stuff, carbs, some tin wear), so has all to be replaced but, I don't want to bother trying to restore it if it needs upgrading to run on unleaded petrol, so the question is "How do I know if its leaded or unleaded is there an easy way?"
So how come you can buy engines that are supposed to have been converted to run on unleaded??? doesn't make sense unless they're trying to make a fast buck or two.
the whole unleaded thing WAS NOT a con, it was mostly applicable to cast iron headed engines with no inserts on the valve seats they were cut directly into the cast iron head, aluminium headed engines generally had hardened inserts BUT NOT ALL. the unleaded VW engine that are advertised as unleaded ARE a con, they have been able to run on unleaded since the early 70s
Hi All, Well, I've looked at the numerous posts on this well aired subject, and I would generally agree that an alloy headed engine with steel inserts shouldn't need leaded fuel. The worry I have is that the exhaust tappet clearance on my '73 1,600 twin port has disappeared every time I service the engine ie. every 2,000 miles or less. This appears to me to be valve recession. Given that it's not the original engine, could it be fitted with sub-standard, ie. soft inserts ? Or does anybody have a different suggestion for disappearing clearances ? BTW the engines seems to be running fine otherwise. Cheers.
Could be recession or more likely your exhaust valves stretching. Are you running lean/hot? I'd be tempted to investigate before a valve head comes off.
This is all interesting. I was wondering what was the best fuel to put in my 1969 ? Is the standard stuff ok or should i spend the extra few quid and put in premium ?
Interesting, and worrying ! The plugs are telling me the engine's running on the cold side if anything, which I'd always prefer. And it's all exhausts except #1 oddly. In a parallel life, stretching exhausts are relatively commonplace - but that's in the world of nitromethane. I would really hope that the van isn't experiencing valve temperatures like that ! But hey-ho, it would be toasty warm in the cab - 'till the heat exchangers melted ! I have another thought, where the head sits on the cylinder, the aluminium seems to have been pressed in. If this is ongoing, could that be the problem, if perhaps the head is softer than it should be ? Can't help thinking that would eventually offload the head bolt preload and blow. or is that next . . . .
