type 4 engine removal

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by bluething, Jun 3, 2013.

  1. hello, as the title suggests, the engine is coming out this weekend and I wondered if anyone had any usefull tips. I have the rear end up on ramps and trolley jack at the ready. Lots of bits of wood also at the ready :)

    any time saving and labour saving tips would be greatly appreciated :D
     
  2. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    get help, type 4 is heavy, make sure you've disconnected all wiring and drained/sealed tank outlet (basic but often overlooked) i'd try a skateboard or a trolley rather than just a jack....... get help heavy - did I mention heavy?
     
  3. hmmm.... skate board! that's not a bad idea! :)

    Okay, tank will be plugged. do you think they're heavy then?? ;)
     
  4. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    yes, they're heavy :lol: type 1 is ok'ish but type 4 is a bit on the weighty side - some may say they're heavy.
     
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Jack the back up a bit.
    Remove plastic part of oil filler.
    Detach servo, acc cable, fuel to pump, heat control cables, concertinas, wiring, tank breather/filter.
    Support engine with jack
    remove gearbox rear hanger bolts (15mm socket)
    remove hanger bar/hanger nuts/bolts
    Pivot the whole lot down on GBox front mount and catch the gearbox with a strap, chain or another jack.
    Remove the "4 bolts" and draw the engine off the gearbox.
    Jack van high enough to get it out of the back.
    I'll be doing same today.
     
    bluething likes this.
  6. I used a Jenga style method, as I was on my own, with a thick piece of ply under the engine and re positioned the trolley jack after each layer of wood was removed

    Final bits were done using a shovel (can you tell I'm an ex forces mechanic!) to get it onto a bit of MDF and it was dragged into the garage after some none health and safety approved use of jacks / wood to clear the rear valance (refer to use of shovel and previous occupation)

    Has anyone mentioned it's heavy!

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    bluething likes this.
  7. Cheers Zed!!:)
     
  8. Mr B that's brilliant! :thumbsup:
     
  9. As said, type 4s are heavy... somewhere in the region of 120kg/19stone

    I use a motorcycle jack... absolutely spot on for putting engines in and taking them out!!
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Using a motorcycle jack, what is the minimum height you must raise the van to provide sufficient clearance.
     
  11. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    I'm getting our T1 engine out in a few weeks! How much do they weigh out of interest?
     
  12. Type 1 engines come in around 80kg/12stone


    In that pic, the van is lowered, and on std height wheel ramps, and it went straight under with no need to jack the van higher :)
     
  13. .....did anyone mention heavy? I got an engine stand a while back and they are very nice if you want to have easy access nearly all round the engine when working on it. Getting the thing on the stand is a bit of a wrestle though. I am loving the motorcycle lift idea thought.
     
  14. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    Engine is coming out tomorrow! First time I've done it so have convinced the missus to give me a hand (she's been reading John Muir's book and said she enjoyed it!). Hopefully just a quick valve job so wish me luck!
     
  15. Mines out tomorrow, that's the plan anyway.

    One thing I'm not clear on; once the engine is off the gearbox shaft can the gearbox be left hanging or does it need supporting with a jack all the time?
     
  16. Take it back down off the ramps as its a B'stard to get and engine back in when it's up in the air.

    My favoured technique is pull the engine out, lower it to the floor, then raise one side of the van as high as it will go and slide the engine out under the rear corner you have raised. Reinsertion is the reverse of this process. I spent years using trolley jack and axle stands but now use a motorbike/atv jack which is perfect and makes the process so quick its great.

    Watch my vids here which show the process of out then in. In took me a bit longer as my über exhaust was fouling the bumper, it's usually about a 5 minute job to get the engine back into position. Assuming your bus is a stick height van it's an absolute doddle. The engine you see going back in here is complete with all ancillaries fitted and going back into a very low bus but it was easy ( aside from the zorst issue...)
    :)

    This is a type 1 coming out so quite tall when compared to the type 4. I had to tilt it for it to come out.
    :)



    Only thing not on is the air filters
    :)

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    :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2013
  17. If its a late bus its mounted to the chassis via a gearbox mount so no further support needed
    :)
     
  18. My 'first time' was Jenga but not that neat! And used my trusty skateboard to slide it out. That has now been retired and is now used for me to impress my kids with my skateboard tricks prowess
    :)
     
  19. I did this last year, if I do it again, I would have the carbs off before dropping it down, I would advise taking your time, it's not a race, remember it has to move back quite a way to disengage the input shaft almost touching the back valance, also, as well as all the advice below, tag and label all the wires. Good luck, I did it and I am no mechanic...
     

  20. Brilliant idea
     

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