Ok - the plan is this, I have a 2litre Type 4 which is showing over 200k km, I have no idea if it's ever been touched and due to it dripping oil everywhere and drinking fuel I shall be rebuilding it in the coming months. I've been watching Jake Raby to gen-up a little but my question is - What are the "essential" parts to change - and what are the "nice" to change parts? I'm poor so would like to be able to re-use whatever I can. Raby suggests new camshaft everytime etc but unless obviously kaputt surely the VW original can go back in? Based on the parts that come out being within tolerences I would replace - Gaskets (obviously) Crank Main bearings Big end Bearings Con-rod bearings Piston rings Valves I suspect that more will be knackered and I will need pistons and barrels etc but want to avoid the cost of new crank/cam etc and also hopefully rebuild the head. I'm just after a reasonably reliable and fairly leak free engine. If I prices up everything that I have read should be replaced then I may as well get a recon for £2k :-( any thoughts/ opinions welcome!
im on with that at the mo and im thinking of letting paul weeding do it recencly stripped and changed all the oilseals and pushrod tubs ran great with no oil leaks shame it only lasted 100mile as i didnt torque the flywheel enough :-[ and it came loose very expensive mistake anyway if your not a total retard like me then you will be fine ^-^ its the labour charges you pay for bud so go for it i say
Did you do any cam/crank work at all? tbh its only the top end (I think) that needs the work on mine but its not much extra work to split the case and so I'm looking to see what needs or should be changed once in there!
the oil leak is likely to be push rod tube seals, get some nice new green ones and decent r/cover gaskets. refit and adjust valve clearances drinking fuel, if it has the std solex carbs get them tuned properly if the rest runs ok why fix what isnt broke?
Done the pushrod tubes numerous times and still a persistant dribble. There is a leak coming from the seals on the oil cooler also as well as various other as yet unidentified places. Carbs have been tuned by 3 different mechs so I'm happy they are where they should be - other reason for rebuild is due to compression test showing between 70-100 psi, too much variation for my liking.
ive just let paul weeding take my engine all way up to the scottish borders, seems a really good guy fingers crossed i will have a very well sorted block by the end of the month will let you know how i get on
If you give him lots of money it will come back, a rip roaring snarly beast that will do a quarter mile in less time than it takes you to say "how many £'s ,how fast"
Can Paul build me an engine like woodys that does 55 mph but more like 70. Mmmm want one of those. Want a 18sec 1/4 mile bus . Lottery pls come up.
yeah im pleased so far he sent me some pics of the stripped down block, thanked him for the trouble and then wept into mi stella lol! looks like its the original block that aint been touched since 1977 oh well out wi the old in wi the new 8)
If you want a bus that can do a sub 18sec 1/4, then I can build it Kev, your engine was a bit worn out mate... center mains... worn through the white metal down to the copper same with the cam bearings Cam lobes pitted last engine rebuild... you can see how shiny the new cam bearings are
thanks paul for the pics mate (but aint you ment to be working on my engine lol!) its only 20 past 10 dude ;D
been looking at your photo bucket pics mate your doing some good work up there and the the yellow bay sound awesum >
