Type 4 2 litre CJ Engine Rebuild

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Norris, Sep 8, 2018.

  1. 77 Westy and Norris like this.
  2. I saw that but the pulley is not (usually) a tight fit on the fan, there’s radial clearance that might now be filled with Por15. Is the balance weight still crimped in the pulley?
     
  3. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Hope they are permanent markers. I’ve made that error before!
     
    paradox likes this.
  4. Yes the balance weight is still there.

    I'm not sure what you mean by clearance. The star head bolts were done up pretty tight and the rear of the pulley was sitting directly on the fan. Small washers under the bolt heads, large flat-sided washers under the nuts.
     
  5. :D Yes, a Sharpie permanent marker
     
    Merlin Cat likes this.
  6. This might explain it - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8681745#8681745
     
  7. Excellent read. Thanks. I'm glad my father-in-law has a lathe and I'll definitely get it on there to realign everything. So the clearance you mentioned was between the fan/pulley and the fan housing? I thought you meant between the pulley and the fan. If the paint is too thick I can always remove it from the rim
     
  8. I did mean between the pulley and the fan and the Samba link is showing how to centre the pulley on the fan using a dial indicator on the rim of the fan and the groove of the pulley. If you have POR15 where the two parts bolt together it should be removed so there is metal to metal contact.
     
    F_Pantos and Norris like this.
  9. Fair enough. I can scrape it away from the mating surface. Thanks for the advice
     
    77 Westy likes this.
  10. I don't know if the thickness of the paint would make that much difference given that a rubber belt will be running in the pulley. Scraped back with a razor blade anyway...

    20180923_124747.jpg
     
  11. The thickness of the paint is not the main problem. When these things are made the pulley is mounted on the fan and the assembly balanced; once you remove the fan it’s unlikely to go back in exactly the same position and the pulley should be centralised on the fan and the assembly rebalanced.
     
  12. I think it's about time to resurrect this thread.

    As you may have gathered I'm taking my time over the rebuild, although that's probably not the phrase that Mrs Norris would use :) Anyway, it is continuing with what time I have.

    There's been a fair bit of shopping been happening and I'll post a list of ingredients soon. That's one of the advantages of taking my time - the bank account has been able to stand the gradual accumulation of parts, luckily.

    So when I left off this thread I had been concentrating on the tinware, gathering pieces I was missing or replacing parts that were too corroded to use. I had also started stripping down the engine, bagging & tagging the parts as I went. Well the good news is that everything is pretty clean now, or replaced. Many hours with Comma Hyperclean and a toothbrush, followed by wire brush bits in my Dremel, have left me with a clean case and ready to start reassembling

    15685388254407865572887311720651.jpg

    I removed the main case studs, cleaned, painted and baked them to cure the high temperature paint. I took care to mask off the threads.

    20190721_191408(0).jpg

    I did the same with the pushrod tubes, again masking off where the rubber seal rings sit
     
    F_Pantos likes this.
  13. Interesting thread so far. I watched the Jake Raby dvd before I built mine. Found it helpful. Also got the local engineering shop to check and measure everything.
     
  14. I might have to get a copy of that. The Bentley manual is pretty scanty on engine details, and Haynes isn't that much better

    Edit: purchased from ebay. Thanks for the recommendation
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
    vinnyboy likes this.
  15. Having stripped down the engine the crank looked fine, journals were ok, still round, and original size. The cam was a bit worn, with typical wear marks.

    So for the shopping list, it mostly came from VW Heritage with a few bits from Cool Air VW

    New standard cam
    https://www.vwheritage.com/021109021cb-mechanical-camshaft-1700-2000cc-standard-vw-spare

    Solid cam followers
    https://www.vwheritage.com/021109309g-camshaft-follower-1700-2000cc-manual-vw-spare

    A new pair of heads
    https://www.vwheritage.com/071101061x-cylinder-head-2000cc-393-x-33mm-complete-vw-spare

    A new pair of heat exchangers (kit including flaps, etc.)
    https://www.vwheritage.com/039298250-heat-exchanger-kit-for-2000-type-4-vw-spare

    Cam gear
    https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sh...AC1092017/Camshaft_Gear_-_Type_4_Engines.html

    New 96mm barrels and pistons
    https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sh..._-OB-For_Use_On_2000cc_Type_4_Engine-CB-.html

    Plus standard bearings, a rebuild gasket set and various seals, flaps, bolts, etc.

    Again, the advantage of buying it over a period of time or it would have killed me. Having said that I could have probably bought one ready built for that kinda money, but where's the fun in that?
     
    Deefer66 and F_Pantos like this.
  16. Ready built with all those new bits would be bit more... im trying to use "pre loved" where I can but some stuff just has to be new ..... and it is fun, sometimes the fun seems far away but it always comes back. Our first build just got us to Wolfburg and back without a hiccup over a week.. makes me happy everytime she starts!
     
    vinnyboy and Norris like this.
  17. I agree that it has to be fun or what’s the point. It would make a lot more sense to buy a Bongo or similar, but where’s the fun in that.
     
    Gooders likes this.
  18. Thanks for the encouragement @Deefer66 and @vinnyboy. Sometimes it seems like I've bitten off more than I can chew, but then breaking it down into small targets helps
     
    F_Pantos likes this.
  19. Norris likes this.

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