Anyone running a twin Weber IDF 40 set up ?. I am running these with a CB Performance hex bar linkage on my 73 with a 1776 engine. I'm not getting anywhere near full throttle at the carbs when the foot pedal is flat on the floor. Just wondered if anyone else experienced this and had come up with a solution. It's all running fine just not able to take advantage of what I hope will be a bit more power. Stirlingmoz
Had similar with my dells, sorted it by lengthening/screwing out adj.rod under pedal and checking 1st then tightening /pulling slack out of throttle cable at linkage bar >look underneath and see, when someone gently presses pedal when connecting mech starts to move ,is there a lag? same at cable /engine end, does bar move as soon as pedal is used ?(did u fit new cable?)
The throttle cable isn't a new one. There is no slack in the system either. There just isn't enough pedal travel to open up the carbs fully. Was thinking of fabricating a longer lever at the pedal end to get more cable pull for the same amount of pedal depression. I guess you could modify the levers at the carb end too. Stirlingmoz
I had the same problem and as you suggest i made a longer lever at the pedal end where the cable attaches to get more movement. Worked a treat and not difficult to do. Tried using different hole at the hex bar end but found unsatisfactory results, stiff throttle action mainly.
Thanks Snig. Very useful reply. Perhaps i'm on the right track. With apologies to GBHJon on here..this is his pic and is the same as my throttle pedal set up. (mine is disassembled at the moment and I nicked his pic) You can see how little throttle pedal travel there is before the linkage hits the cab floor.. The next pic is of the linkage / lever at the other end of the cross shaft and is under the cab floor. The hole centres are 45mm. I wanted to make a longer version of this lever, starting at 55mm and see how that goes. However, I have no idea how to fabricate / replicate the funny shaped hole that helps this locate on the cross shaft. Any ideas ? Stirlingmoz
As paul said, i welded a piece to the original arm. I used a cheese wedge shaped piece which allowed me to experiment with different postions for optimum leverage and throw
If you still want to replicate that lever but longer Then the shaped hole can be made by using the original to mark the hole on your fresh piece of steel Cover the fresh piece of steel with permenant marker then allow to dry Use a scribe through the hole in the original to mark the size and shape of hole Then drill two suitable sized holes side by side just overlapping a touch Then use a selection of small files to remove material untill you have removed all the material inside the scored shape
