hi, i have a 1600 twinport which i am trying to return to stock.it came with very little of the original tinware and j tubes. i am trying to return to stock heating system. does anyone know where i can get a full list of the tinware so i can see whats missing and what i need to buy. diagrams or phots would be great. Thanks
Don't know if this helps? Machine 7 do a complete kit apart from the rear piece which aren't available except second hand around £150
http://www.vw-resource.com/engine_tin.html there are better diagrams knocking around.....search ratwell
buy good used original where possible....but don't pay stupid money....it just inflates the prices for everybody else
Yep, used is good. Repro stuff normally needs fettling. If you're in need of cylinder head shrouds/tin, original stuff will have the "gull wing" air deflectors in. Repro stuff won't, as they can't be ar*ed.
I was going to be making the rear section as a one piece item, but after looking at the closeness of the exhaust, I'll be doing it as an add on to the beetle rear tin... that way you have the option of what tin you use, whether it be with/without holes/heat risers As for cost, I'd like to do a LB intro price, but I would need to do a minimum order quantity... That way I can do a large quantity purchase from my GRP supplies supplier, and get set up with a vac pump system so I can produce a higher quality part
I've got an original steel rear main tin available here @pheasant plucker http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/tins-headlamp-grills-gauges-etc.30696/ I'm reliably informed the price is fair and eBay bears this out. I don't bite though (often) and may consider offers.
A rear apron made of fibreglass would not suit if you run an aftermarket exhaust - the EMPI 4 into 1 top tube almost touches the tin and the JK stainless 4 into 1 does touch the tin in a couple of places and burns the paint off, unless the tin is dented strategically. I think you would end up with brown cracked brittle patches fairly quickly. Although it doesnt look as nice, welding patches seems to work OK in terms of blocking off the rusty tin worm holes if you catch them before they join up.
wouldn't be a bad idea to fix decent quality heat shield under the tin anyway.... great site here.....http://www.agriemach.com/c7/heat-and-sound-insulation/
Which part of the tin is the exhaust close to touching, as I looked at a JK system recently, and it appeared to be closest to the bottom pulley recess... What I'm aiming to do is produce this: You then add whichever style of type 1 rear tin is suitable for your application!! As for heat transfer breaking down the resin, it won't happen as long as their is an air gap between the 2, but not only that, VW themselves installed a heat sheild, so the best thing to do would be to add some exhaust wrap to prevent heat soak into the engine compartment!! My moulds: I've just got a little bit of wet sanding to do to them, and a machine polish to bring the gloss up, and they are ready for production!!