Tin ware paint

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by matty, Apr 24, 2013.

  1. matty

    matty Supporter

    So what to paint mine with.
    I was thinking etch primer the a black stove paint
     
  2. powdercoat :thumbsup:
     
  3. I've had some bad results with powder coated bumpers with rust appearing after 12 months. I'm running some experiments with a variety of chassis paints over the next couple of weeks.

    I'm trying to find the toughest aerosol paint. I'm starting with VHT Rollbar and Chassis, then Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black. I might try putting something like KBS RustStop in a reusable aerosol to see how that works.

    I have to say, KBS RustStop was very impressive but I fellout with the supplier over some date code issues.
     
  4. matty

    matty Supporter

    Needs to be cheep the engine is costing me enough
    i really don't understand how they can do a recon engine for £650
     
  5. i was going to paint mine but the thought of de greasing, removing old paint, filling, priming and several top coats compared to £80 for blasting and powder coating

    the £80 was money well spend and left me with lots more spare time to do other jobs
     
  6. That should not be happening... sounds like you've had a dodgy place do it dude... powdercoat is one of those things that virtually lasts forever!! :thumbsup:
     
  7. Blast and powdercoat. Cheap and lasts for ever. The tinware doesn't get that hot.
     
  8. I used black Hammerite, don't chastise me but it look ok and is ok after 50 miles.
     
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    They have to be powder coated straight away after blasting. Blasted steel starts to rust as soon as you look at it! A few delays delay if the coater uses a seperate blasting company and it's winter...
     
  10. Etch prime then tractor enamel

    [​IMG]
     

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