At some point in Clem’s life, the original CE code gearbox has been replaced with a CU code. After however many years there is now quite a lot of slop in the box and also a noticeable whine. I also have no idea where it came from, whether it was a rebuilt box or just an emergency swap. With this in mind I would quite like to get it sorted out, and my options have always been to either have Clem off the road whilst the CU code box is rebuilt, or to acquire another box already rebuilt and just swap them. (Selling on the other box whilst it still has a bit of life left) So my question really is this.... Most 3 rib gearboxes seem to be CE code, which as a 73 build would have been originally fitted, so if I were to acquire one.... what differences are there with fitting? Assuming the CU was properly installed of course. I seem to remember there are some differences with the starter motor and maybe the input shaft? Or something like that! Anyhow, any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is from the chap that built my Bug gearbox. "There are basically 5 bay window gearboxs which can be easily identified with out the code.. firstly by the number of ribs 3x1600 3 ribs 1700 5 ribs 2.0l 6 ribs Although the ratios are the same in all the 1600 boxes they come in 3 formes... 68-72, 72-76 and 76-78 The 68-72 1600 box has 113 internals, with none welded 3rd and 4th gear, these boxes have no mounting eyes on the top of the bell housing The 73-76 has 002 internals (with factory welded syncro hubs), these have the mounting eyes and take a T1 starter motor And the 76-78 has 091 internals (welded hubs and wider stronger gears), these have the mounting eyes on the bell housing and take the 2.0l starter motor If you are still struggling to identify your box let me know." It seems to imply that the box with 002 internals is better, as far as I know 113 internals would be a Bug box. I am guessing that your CU code is an 002 box, but from what John is saying the eyes on the top of the case, should be a giveaway. Getting hold of a decent Bug starter motor shouldn't be difficult, if that's all it takes. Edit: when does it whine? All the time, just in high gear, or more on over run?
True enough, I am certain my 1700 only has a 3 rib, but I refuse to go in the garage in this weather to double check This seems a common misconception as I have read it elsewhere. I think 1700 v 1800 is a bit if a red herring, however, as we're talking about a type 1 power here, so it's the difference between CE and CU that's relevant, right?
.................1st...2nd...3rd...4th...RV.....FD......year CU 1600 3•78 2•06 1•26 0•82 3•28 5•428 1976~79 CE 1600 3•80 2•06 1•26 0•82 3•80 5•428 1972~75 looking at it they are very similar both for a 1600 just very slight ratio difference's the biggest difference is in the reverse gear but i don't know why that is as a side note if you are going to have it rebuilt you can have whatever gearing you want to a degree including a better 4th for motorway use .
Also if your having it rebuilt you can get the bell housing that suits your starter fitted and the shorter input shaft (i think it would be correct anyway as as far as i know all 1600 have the shorter shaft )for the 1600cc engine.
So for the sake of learning and increasing my knowledge about gearboxes, with a type 1 1776cc, which is the better box? Should I just get my gearbox rebuilt rather than swapping to an older CE type? Or am I asking the gearbox equivalent of “what oil?” ?!
Given what @Ian Jones said, I'd do some investigation to see if your CU box has had a nose cone swap, or put another way, is it the same cone (fitting) as your spare. My gearbox rebuild took ages, some of it was me dithering about ratios and some was due to the case needing work, I doubt your case is in the state mine was in, and, if it were, it's cheaper to swap the stock case. Anyway, my point is, a rebuild takes time, often longer than you think, (or get told), if the spare fits you could use it while you get the later box rebuilt. I am happy to be corrected, but the later box may have stronger internals. Also, either way, you already know the CU box fits, coz it's in Clem Finally, with a 1776 you could have a longer 4th fitted, but that will mean the fan runs slower for the same wheel speed, so worth making certain your cooling is up to the job. As many opinions on this as people have backsides..... and the end of the day, you have to wade thru the minefield and decide what suits you best and how you use the Bus.
Not sure what year Clem is, but (from memory) if he's late he would've been fitted with a CU box. Just an updated version of the CE. Mine's a 78, and would've come with a CU box from the factory, but at some point someone's put in a CE. Much of a muchness, so I wouldn't fret. A CE is just fine for a 1776. Slop in the gears may be the linkage, so that's your first port of call. Get underneath and have a nose. Worn bits in the nosecone another culprit, but easily fixed. Diffs do whine over the years, but unlikely to explode. Sticking some Syntrans 75/90 in the box should quieten it down and is a job you can do yourself (and is well worth doing anyway).
PS Starter motor depends on the bell housing, not the gearbox. You'd normally keep your bell housing when swapping boxes. I've got an early CE box, with the original late bellhousing, so starter stays the same.
