The POO BUS gone but not forgotten.

post removed as i had to thin out my picture hosting and they were boring exhaust pics

 

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Cheers Mark, so the "flap" is in a piece of pipe i haven't yet sourced? and i know the section you mean under the walkthrough, i presume the pipework for this is built into the floor itself,? as i can't see how the vents at the end of the walkthrough would pick up a feed of air.
Anyone else help with any of the other questions? Ta.

 

The good news is that tomorrow i'm off over PIE's he has a "spares" bus and complete engine set up off the van so i can collect any missing parts and also take some reference pictures from him this should help me no end, i'm thinking that i'm just going to minimise the heating set up, nobody sits in the rear so reactivating the under bench vent or walkthrough vent is just more areas to lose heat through, i'm just going for one pipe from the Y piece straight to the front screen feed with simple on off flap control.

 

Happy CHRISTMAS to all.
Hi Ricky. My bus has this part half way down the floor. There are 2 pipes that come out of it. 1 goes to the rear of the walk through and the other goes to the middle of the rear seat, out through the black vent that you can see. I disconnected all of this to keep it simple and direct more heat to the front.
I got new card heater tubes from G.S.F. They are the correct shape and size for type 4 bus motors.
All the tin pipes look the same as mine. They just seem to fit where they tuch so may just need a bit of a fiddle.

 

Just been to PIE's house to fetch more bits (after i got lost) he's given me 2 long tubes (which are lightweight) which he says replace all the heavy stuff that go to the under seat feeds etc, this pipe is in 2 pieces and just goes from the Y to the front feed to the screen. I had a look at a type 4 engine he had complete and i've deffo got some tin missing underneath, it also looks like the heat exchangers i got off DUBious (i'm guessing they are american) are not compatible with the parts i got off nedfaux, the exchangers have oval outlets to the metal pipework that links to the pods where as the pipes to link to the pods i got off nedfaux are round, so i need to either butcher them or source some oval to round pipes if anyone does them?, i couldn't see why the pipe on the left that picks up the feed from the electric fan won't fit so i'll have to try and force that on, also the 3rd hole in the tin i unblocked will need to be re-blocked as it doesn't need to be a hole. If i'm honest it's kind of looking like i'm trying to make 3 different types of stuff fit together......I reckon that because of how the tin underneath fixes to the exchangers that the previous owner fitted j tubes and because they have no place to fix the tin to like on the casing of the exchangers they got binned, should there be more tin above the missing pieces? i can see the piston pots (fins) and the pushrod tubes should they be enclosed? i think i'm starting to understand why the engine runs so warm on the temp guage.

 

There should be tin between the cylinder fins and the push-rod tubes. This is certainly one of the more essential bits.
as it forces the air around the lower fins rather than straight past. I can't see if it's there on your pics.

 

i cant see anything between the tubes and the fins as i say, i can see straight up to the pots where the pistons go?

 

i will try and take some closer pics tomorrow, starting to think i've opened a big can of worms here

 

zed's right mate. In the middle of the pic is a screw which should be holding the cylinder tins in place, it looks to be missing. There is one of these each side. They nearly always get missed when a rebuild is done. These channel the cooling air correctly are an absolute essential. You might be getting away with it but you'll end up cooking it

 

ok so whos got the missing tin for sale?

 

Morning Ricky, you also need the plastic cover that goes over the oblong hole on your alternator. Otherwise hot air gets blown back out onto the cool side of the engine, only to be sucked in again.

 

Hi mate, there should be a little cover that clips in the hole where you access the alternator adjusting screw.