The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

They're all in a line as I thought they were unlikely to overload a 16.5amp cable
Seriously though, presume the set up in my diagram is OK?

 

I’ll have look tomorrow. The only peril is if you’ve got a ton of bulbs connected via the stock dimmer rheostat. You could potentially burn the winding out. That’s it, really.

 

6 of those 2watt speedo bulbs should be OK shouldn't it?

 

No idea . From memory, the dimmer rheostat is just a little wirewound potentiometer. No idea what the power rating of it is. 12W is quite a hefty load for a pot. Could always fit LEDs (which actually work better), or use your slave dimmer thingy to take some of the load off the dimmer.

 

I like the LED idea. Just found some. It doesn't say what power they are, just that it's lower. Are LEDs dimmable ok?
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/dashboard-gauge-bulbs-1/281

 

Could use single LEDs. I used LED striplights (will find a pic tomorrow), which give a more even coverage. Mine seem to dim ok: the LEDs don't seem to drop out. My gauge lights I connected straight to the sidelight fuse. Who dims these things anyway?

Also coloured LEDs for the rest of the warning lights, apart from the alternator, which got a fresh 2-watter bulb.

 

Some light bedtime reading for you . Pretty good description, actually.

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html

 

Assuming you ever go to bed ...

 

That's a point. So if I connect them to the side terminal on the switch, the rheostat is avoided so all good for now anyway. Need to stop spending money now until it's working!

 

Thank you

 

Correct. A mod normally done by folks whose rheostat has blown up. Top of one of the sidelight fuses will do the same thing.

 

Reading this now. Brilliant. Unravels the myths of the little black box

 

They’re simple beasts (at least in the automotive world).

 

Also...if you have a google for “Bosch terminal designations” you should find a doc that tells you the function of all the mysterious terminal numbers (30, 87...)

 

Excellent article. I love the last example, right down at the bottom, for a simple security device using 2 basic 4 pin relays.

Shame it doesn't replace the hot start. I think you'd need 3 relays to do both. Hmm. ...

And I'm beginning to think the fuel pump relay issue needs a timer relay involved in the circuit to solve it.

 

You don’t really need a timer relay; the engine will start just fine with the pump only starting while cranking. A mechanical pump moves very little fuel at cranking speed but an electric pump is balls to the wall as soon as it starts.

 

As it's her birthday, took bus for an Mot this morning......passed with no advisories.....Happy days !

 

I have wondered about fitting a key fob electronic entry lock instead of the push button in that circuit.
Or getting a plastic Jesus or a hula girl or a gonk with a magnetic base and putting a key fob tag in that, so the ornament must be in place to get a starter feed. ."my van rolls with Jesus" ..

 

That looks...completely useless to me . Relay creations are best avoided - you can end up with some real monstrosities. Relay logic went out of fashion donkeys years ago.

 

Excellent article. I love the last example, right down at the bottom, for a simple security device using 2 basic 4 pin relays. Shame it doesn't replace the hot start. I think you'd need 3 relays to do both. Hmm. ...

It just appealed to me. My parents Subaru Legacy had the same arrangement for starting.
Did you have any joy with a hot start relay diagram? Also do you think my split charge set up is OK. Vehicle Wiring Products say you need 16mm2 cable between the batteries and a socking great relay.