I realise this is a common thread and I have read everything I can. my fuel gauge is not working and am wanting to check the resistance on the sender wire to the back of the instrument panel. am dissapointed not to be getting a reading and want to check before I take things further. Realise this is basic….
Are you measuring ohms between the black/brown wire behind the dash and earth? Forget what the numbers are for full and empty, but they in the order of a few tens of ohms. Or is it brown/black? One of the two.
Thanks for responding snotty. I am getting really good at getting the dash off. Exactly that. Trying to measure ohms on brown black wire and earth. where is a suitable earth. Not getting anything and just checking I am doing it right
Anywhere! Back of the gauge cluster (assuming the brown earth wire is connected). Or any screw head behind the dash screwed into the bodywork. Might be that the sender has gone open-circuit, or that the cable from the sender in the tank compartment has dropped off. Or the sender earth has. There is also a connector for the sender wire somewhere round the right-hand wheel arch. That might have become disconnected.
Not getting any reading on the sender cable. When I connect the sender terminal to earth with a separate cable the fuel gauge doesn’t move which is also a bad sign right? am getting a swinging voltage across the voltage regulator between 6 and 11 v which seems correct
Yes it worked until very recently. I removed the dash top very recently to respray it and since replacing it has not worked. I have ordered a new regulator just in case it is that. I think the wiring is correct will take a photo as the dash is off again. The speedo cable was stuck on
If the stabilizer is pulsing like that, it has got good 12 volts and a ground. It is working.. Disconnect the regulator and the sender wire. Measure the resistance across the tags on the back of the gauge. It should be in the tens of ohms region. If it is open circuit, and the tags are wobbly then a wire may have fallen off inside if you are lucky. If you are unlucky you need to source a working fuel gauge.. The resistance of the sender wire to the body of the bus should be in the tens of ohms region as others have said. If it's open circuit the sender could have worn out. At the same time but an unrelated fault..
Am getting current from the voltage regulator right around to the sender cable. Is it correct that if I connect the sender connector to earth with another cable it should read full. have replaced any dodgy connectors and tested continuity just in case
I am not getting a resistance on the sender cable if I am doing that properly. Red from multimeter into cable and black to earth at the back of the dash
Would imply that something's gone open circuit down the back... I'd avoid the traditional test of earthing the sender wire connection on the gauge. Leave it on for too long and you could possibly burn out the heater wire in the gauge. Late Bay gauges are like hens teeth to find.
I had a trip with it not working for a few days with a few refills to the brim. Really odd that the sender should have gone when trying to sort the dash. Never like making two diagnosis when one should cover it. Odd. Better take the plunge and remove the firewall to have a look or buy a cheap endoscope through the paint tin. Is a type 4 with a single carb so I should be able to remove the firewall without dropping the engine as far as I have read. I am learning a lot......great fun
