1979, 2lt Type 4, on points and solex pdsit 32 34 carbs Last year my crank case was filling with petrol, plus I had a petrol leak on one carb. So I changed the oil, removed he carbs and rebuilt them, and put the car back together this weekend (6 months later). It started fine, but sounds like a bag of spanners, it is really tappety. Question 1 - Assuming tappets. Could it be something else? Question 2 - I have Hydraulic tappets (at least I think I have....1979 2lt should have shouldn't it?). I have read (below) that actually they should be adjusted. It says to screw in the adjuster so it touches ... am I reading that correct ? http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
the type 4 2l engine experts will be on soon. I have the type 1 engine and was hit by the fuel in oil problem some months ago, sorted it out, it was failed mechanical fuel pump, but a few weeks ago the engine developed a regular rattle which so far points to n0 4 big end gone. I wouldn't assume your noise is tappets. My advice would be to check it out and identify where the bag of spanners noise is coming from and not drive your van around until engine sorted. My engine starts fine but has a regular knocking/tapping and found bits of white metal in the oil.
If you’re sure they’re hydraulic they should be pre-loaded (just like your V8); somewhere between ½ and 1½ turns from zero clearance.
If the oil light goes out immediately the engine starts the chances are the hydraulic cam followers have bled down during the six-month shutdown and they should pump up again after a few miles.
my son has early t25 with 2l CU engine with hydraulic tappets, after standing for a while, the engine is very tappety but quietens down after a decent run out. hopefully your noise is due to tappets and nothing else.
Great. Thanks all. Geoff - OK thanks. So, just to be really clear for my thick brain, at TDC on each cylinder the valves should be 0.5-1.5 from touching? Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
6 months off? Lifters swill have bled down, run it for at 30 mins while ignoring the noise and it should go away after they have pumped up Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
What makes you certain the engine has hydraulic tappets. My 79 2ltr bay has like most CJ engined versions destined for the European market, is fitted with manual adjusters.
I have a CU engine with hydraulic tappets in mine. I had one side tapping more than the other even after a good run. I ended up changing them as they weren't pumping up after starting. If they don't pump up and the followers are rattling against them they wear, what I believe I was told anyways. Set them up and I'm sure they self adjust after a period. Maybe wrong but that's my understanding.
Great point. I have a CJ engine. Does that mean its not hydraulic ? Is there a definite way I can check ? Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Yes, both valves should be closed at TDC on the compression stroke, wind the adjuster in (or out) until there is zero clearance then wind it in another 1½ turns so the cam follower is compressed. If you have solid lifters the engine won’t run set like this but if the lifters are hydraulic they’ll self-adjust, although they may still take some time to pump up.
My 2l CJ engine has manual tappets. I originally thought it might have hydraulic tappets so adjusted everything accordingly but it sounded like a bag of nails, so I reset everything for normal tappets and everything's been fine since! Sent from my SGP712 using Tapatalk
If the push rods are steel you probably have hydraulic followers if they’re aluminium the followers are probably solid. I only say probably because you can have solid followers with steel pushrods if the engine has been modified from factory spec.
Hydraulic lifter motors normally have solid spacers between the Rockers and have steel pushrods Manual adjuster versions normally have springs between the Rockers and have alloy pushrods I say "normally" as given the age of these engines they may have been rebuilt differently
