@snotty @earlylatebay if i remove the strap on the oil filler tube and bolts holding the alternator here i comes off with the fan attached right?
Undoing the four M6 screws should free the whole backplate assembly. Lifting it clear might be a tussle, though.
While you're a-Dremeling, it's worth shaping your manifolds so that you don't have any "steps" sticking out into the airflow. Use the carb and manifold gaskets as a template, mark any slight "sticking-out" areas of the manifold and file them down. Small point, but worth doing. The holes on my Dell manifolds had the holes in the right place, but the stud positions were slightly mis-drilled, so that the edge of some protruded into the airflow.
Thanks earlylatebay, I did read it and it does answer some of my queries but I should have worded my questions better. Is it ok to run the Carbs without a balance pipe? (although they would run better with one) Also can you use the vacuum take of as a balance pipe? sorry if this is a daft question but I've not have twin carbed engine before. It was all installed previously without one but with the hose outlet (vacuum?)blocked off. Also, with twin carbs where do you feed the tank breather which used to go to the air box? Many thanks
Run mine just fine without balance pipe - the guy tuning it on the rolling road took it off and blanked the ports as he said it wasnt doing a thing Just another thing to cause an air leak was his feeling - more of a requirement on big carbs not tiddlers like 34's Done thousands of miles since without a single issue
Thanks @StuF, I didn't want to go drilling and fitting barbs in the empi manifolds if I didn't need to as I may change it all winter time. I will plan to get it set up by someone professional and see how it goes. Also, Where have you fitted your fuel tank breather from the T piece?
I have read a load of opinions, talked to a lot of people and some say use a balance pipe, other say not to worry, but the chap that build my engine said it makes tuning easier, and @earlylatebay has offered some brilliant advice and his opinion is to use a balance pipe, so for £4 for 2 x 1/4" x 12mm barbs and some 12mm hose and a small amount of time drill drill and tap the manifolds id say it was worth the effort if the setup is easier
i think i put all of that on without the alternator stand on, which is why im thinking it was easy, it was so long ago a i cant remember. if it loosens it enough to get the manifold off thats good for me
Yep read most of the same and drilled tapped and attached the balance pipe like a good mechanic - then the guy rolling roading my bus and setting up the carbs/ignition/timing removed it all as it wasnt doing anything. He is a long term carb guy and said it only made a difference on large volume carbs like 44's so having mine fitted was just more likely to introduce a failure point for air leaks and future issues. If im totally honest I havent noticed a single difference with it removed so havent taken the trouble of reinstating the pipe even though the manifolds are still tapped and one will be getting used very soon for a remote brake servo
Sorry Guys, I didn't want to start another oil thread and good to hear both sides of an opinion. Tbh if the current set up can get me through a few months I will be happy as not been on the road since 2015 and can take call on it later. Please can you let me know where you have fitted the tank breather?
i will drill a hole in the top of one of the filters and fit a barbed connector, along with the crank case oil breather pipe
