Swapping a 1700 for a 2000 Type 4?

Please excuse my ignorance as I am new to all thus but is a 1700 a type 4 engine? The reason I ask is that I am considering upgrading my 1700 bay to the T4 2L engine. Would this be an easy swap? I have searched the forums but not found the info I need.

Thanks,
B

 

you'll run into issues flywheel wise... the 2l runs a 228mm clutch, and the 1700 will have either a 210mm or 215mm clutch... so the 228 will foul the inside of the bellhousing!! But if you swap the flywheels over it'll solve that issue!!

Other than that, it's just a case of taking out the 1700 and putting in the 2l

 

Great stuff! So, if i swap the flywheel from my 1700 (which I assume is a simple bolt and torque wrench affair), then the tinware and all anciliaries from my 1700 (including the twin Weber 34ich carbs and sports exhaust) i should be able to directly swap the two engines?

A plan is begining to form..... Would this be a weekend job for a competent home mechanic with a good set of tools, no bay or aircooled experience but armed with a Haynes manual and endless cups ot tea? Any special tools required?

Thanks,
B

 

I'd doing exactly the same. Engine wise a 1.7 becomes a 2.0 thanks to a longer stroke crank and larger pistons. Cases, tinware etc is all the same. Not got to the flywheel issue yet but the gearboxes are different.

 

Easily a weekend job, probably a single day even for a 'novice'.

 

you'll want a flywheel locking tool, and a torque wrench that can go up to 80ft/lbs

 

Great! What is a good flywheel locking tool? In the past I have used a crowbar across the other bolts as I torque each one up. Will this work on the T4 or is there a special tool available?

Thanks

 

http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sho...Flywheels/AC000005/Flywheel_Locking_Tool.html

It goes on the top corner of the case, where the bolt normally passes through from the gearbox

 

Shouldnt take you long but you will need a lump hammer and some wood chisels too.

 

I would advise that you would be lucky to do it in a weekend, might be wrong, if the engine has never been out, all the tin screws are going to be well seized, as a pre-emptive strike, I would spray the screws with some easing oil first...after having done the engine out and in (a 2 litre) I would be better qualified next time but still reckon a weekend is cutting it fine, as I say, might be wrong...

 

It's is more than possible to do in a weekend. Just depends on the person doing the work.

 

ouch!

 

True, it is possible... if you know what you're up to, and there isn't too much faffing of parts between the engines, then you could do it in a day!!

 

Thing is if you are doing it yourself, you tend to spend time cleaning things up etc which takes the time, tidying wiring up etc and probably do some of the other jobs like breather hoses behind the firewall, if its your own time, its daft (in my opinion) to rush it,

 

I'm the worst for doing that too

 

Then you'll find rusty tin you want to replace and holes in the chassis. Allow a month or two.

 

With the help of others I did mine, I replaced the 1700 which was in bits inside the bus when I got mine with a 2ltr CU engine, hydraulic tappets and such. I've got an auto box so obviously a bit different but once you're over the flywheel issue its easy enough to do