LOL, thats probably true i just worry as some of my lifters seem to bleed down pretty quick, think i will just run the engine, turn it off and then quickly check the clearances.
There is a spring under the ball, so starting from loose you'd feel when the screw touched even if they bled.
Clean the plugs then replace them in a different order then run the vehicle for a while. If a previously dirty plug is now clean then you're looking at an ignition problem as well as a mixture problem.
I cleaned and swapped the plugs around and the one that was previously clean is now black, so i know its not the plug. Also had a go at setting up the carbs, but couldn't even get it to idle and no matter where i set the mixture screws it was just running far to rich with black smoke out the exhaust, what could be the problem? i set the fuel levels to 14mm and have the fuel pressure set to 2.5psi, after this i adjusted the valve clearances and set them all to 1 1/2 turns in, but that didn't seem to make much difference.
I also found that when i put the syncrometer on the carb that the needle deflects past the end of the scale! so its pretty useless
Those carbs are a delicate balance with lots of things to set to get the tickover mixture and speed under control. I PM'd someone a how to the other day if you want me to dig it out? Patience is required, but it's actually straightforward once you get your head around it and work in the right order.
Thanks, i do have a good idea on how to set them up, but the thing i can't understand is why the plugs are going black no matter where i set the mixture screws, even when i set them to 1 turn out from closed, it was still blowing black smoke! the only thing i can think of is the fuel level is to high? although i did set them to between 13-14mm, i may try setting the fuel level a bit lower like 15mm and see if that makes any differance?
Have you set the idle mixture on the idle circuit as well as the idle jet mixtures on each carb? What happens when you pull the wire from the idle circuit cut-off valve? Are the chokes coming off? * Have you been for a good thrash? *seems the most likely thing to me from what you said above but I expect you've checked this.
I just set the idle mixture screw 3 turns out and the idle speed screw 3 turns out as a starting point, i tried removing the central idling solenoid wire and it didn't make much differance, yes the chokes do come off, i have not taken it out on the road(no M.O.T yet) but i don't think thats the problem(its not helping i know) as its smoking like a diesel!
The most important thing, before anything else will work, is to set the throttle stops. If they hold the plate open the idle circuit doesn't get a look in. Screw them out then back in until the just touch +1/4 turn. Easiest with the carbs off, but can do with them fitted. Then reset the idle speed with the big screw on top and try pulling the wire again. The revs should drop to about half. Then with it still disconnected, you can set the idle mixtures at the base of the carbs, reconnect and finally set the idle circuit mixture.
The other reason the idle circuit cut-off may appear to work, but not do, is if a valve from a single pict carb is used. I think they're too long and cut the petrol off the whole time. If you set the throttle stops, the revs drop and you can't speed them up with the screw, it's likely no petrol is getting to the idle circuit. If you can't slow it down with the screw, the throttle stops are screwed in too far. If the solenoid valve doesn't work, it's not possible to cut the idle circuit out to set the mixtures. This needs to be working and the correct part.
I removed the carburettors again today and adjusted the fuel levels from where i had them (13-14m) and set them to 17mm, i then reffited them and started the van up, and its now running great with no black smoke so i then started to tune the carbs up, first i set the timing, then i synchronized the throttle linkages, and then i rougthly set the fuel mixture so i could fine tune the mixture with the idling cutoff valves. First i removed the right side cutoff wire and the revs dropped about 400rpm, i then tried the left side but as soon as i pulled the wire the engine stalled, so i richened up the right carb and tried again but it was still the same, the engine just kept stalling straight away, so i now can't go any further with the tune up until i sort this problem, any idea what is causing it??
The one one the top? No, haynes and Bently say leave it attached to the air filter arm, but I don't see it making any difference so I whip it right off and leave it open. It's the air intake for the idle circuit. I did notice when setting some that when the throttle stops were too far in it didn't suck at all. When all's well it sucks air in quite noisily. Hope that helps.
Yes the one on top, i could hear a loud sucking noise from it, i just wondered whether not having it blocked was the reason the engine stalls when removing the cutoff wire, but guess not
